BEW engine timing belt removal for VW Jetta TDI, Golf, and New beetle - mk4 part 2/3
BEW engine timing belt removal - back to part 1/3: intro and removal
Remove the 4 bolts on the harmonic balancer pulley (crankshaft pulley/serpentine belt pulley). If you have a rubber cover over them just pull it out. Caution:The pulley you are removing is the crankshaft pulley/serpentine belt pulley/harmonic balancer pulley only! Do not remove the crankshaft sprocket bolt, the large rusty bolt 19mm 12 point bolt in the above picture. It's a one use only torque to yield bolt so don’t remove it or apply a very large force to it.
If there is any corrosion or resistance, I suggest soaking the bolts in PB Blaster or another penetrating lubricant. The bolt heads are easy to strip. Let them soak since PB blaster needs time to soak and penetrate into the threads and under the bolt heads. When satisfied, counterhold the pulley by having someone put the car in gear and stepping on the brakes. If the pulley still moves, use a 19mm 12 point wrench on the middle bolt to counterhold even more. If the bolts get stripped, use an EZ out stripped bolt extractor to grip the outer diameter of the bolt heads. If the harmonic balancer is stuck after the bolts are removed, use a rubber mallet or a piece of wood to gently knock it back and forth to wiggle it off. The 4 bolt holes are not symmetrical. The pulley will only go on with the holes oriented in the correct orientation.
CAUTION: Some may be 6mm allen head and some may be 10mm triple square bolts (not torx!) I believe the allen head bolts are long but check the length of the original bolts against the length of the new bolts! Some timing belt kits include replacement allen head bolts (pictured below) which may be too long for your pulley if you have triple square bolts! The pictures above show a pulley that requires the short style bolts. It doesn't have the raised ridges. Some pulleys have 4 raised ridges to accommodate the long bolts (similar to the below picture from an earlier engine). Some came with short allen head bolts, some came with short triple square bolts, and some came with long bolts.
The OEM allen head bolts also tend to strip. The triple square bolts are less likely to strip assuming you didn't try to jamb a torx bit into them. The torque spec includes a "+1/4 turn" which suggest they are single use torque to yield bolts but the service manual for the BEW or later pumpe duse engines don't say to replace them so I don't know which is best. If you have replacements that fit I would use them.
Remove the black lower timing belt cover (5x 10mm bolts). The middle-lower cover overlaps the lower-lower round cover. Note the tabs on the edges. (Pic is from a similar engine, your car will look slightly different). The fuzz on the backside is normal but wipe off any oil and dirt.
Set the engine to top dead center (TDC) by manually turning the 19mm 12 point bolt on the crankshaft clockwise to test fit the crankshaft lock and camshaft pin. If manual, the transmission should be in neutral when you turn the engine over or else the transmission will hold the engine. Since you chocked the wheels and applied the parking brake the car won't roll away. Do not apply strong force to the crankshaft bolt like an impact wrench because it's a one use only stretch bolt. It's safe to use the bolt to turn the engine over by hand because the force is low compared to the bolt's torque value and this is how the service manual says to turn the engine over. Do this after removing the serpentine belt because otherwise you'll be turning those too and using more effort. The service manual suggests doing this after removing the motor mount - I suggest doing this before removing the mount because the engine will be more stable.
While you could also turn the engine over at the camshaft sprocket using a counterhold bar, this is not recommended. Despite having more teeth engaging the timing belt, it pulls on the tensioner side of the belt instead of the water pump side of the belt. This stresses the tensioner so don't turn it over there unless you're discarding the tensioner.
The crankshaft is at TDC when the dash mark on the crankshaft sprocket is aligned with the arrow on VW tool# T10050. When inserting the tool, slide it into the teeth on the sprocket (moving towards the engine) - don't push it down (moving down towards the ground) or else the teeth won't be meshed. As a test, pull the tool up (away from the ground) and if the teeth are meshed it won't lift up. There is a peg on the backside where the tool's handle is which fits into a hole on the crank front flange. The peg is visible in the tool pics at the top of the page.
When inserting the tool, insert it while gently turning the crankshaft clockwise. There's a little play and it will be off if you insert it while turning the engine/crankshaft sprocket counter clockwise. If you miss, the service manual says to turn it 1/4 turn counterclockwise before trying again. If you didn't read the warning earlier, here it is again: VW made a few defective T10050 whose arrows were to the right of the handle's hole. The arrow should be to the left of that and in line with one of the bolt holes at the 11:30 o'clock position.
You can also use the metalnerd universal tool. Rest it with the lowermost hole over the knub and thread the bolts on the crankshaft sprocket. Put a single drop of lube on the pin and slide it forward once the engine is almost at TDC. Once the pin is over the hole on the flange it will move forward into the hole. Please note - do not chemical clean the pin because it's a machined fit and the pin can get stuck in in the tool! When you're done with the tool, just wipe any oil or dirt off with a paper towel.
The camshaft is at TDC when VW tool# T3359 can be fully inserted into the hole in the cylinder head. The toothed window should be near the top and not near the bottom. If the toothed window is in the lower half of the sprocket, turn the crankshaft 1 full revolution. Make sure that the pin is fully inserted in the hole! It goes through the sprocket, through the hub that the sprocket mounts onto, and into the hole on the cylinder head.
Here is a view with the camshaft sprocket removed, the pulley removed for illustration (the pulley should not be removed so don't loosen the large center bolt), and a view from straight on. Use a mirror to confirm the position of the hole. Make sure you're not inserting the pin into the empty space way below the hole. (If you've triple checked the hole position with a mirror and find that the pin is a hair off and won't go in, that's OK. Once you remove the timing belt you can use the 18mm center bolt to slightly wiggle the camshaft hub 1 or 2 degrees to insert the pin. If it's more than a hair off something is wrong.)
The Bentley service manual mentions a "mark on the rear timing belt cover" but it's blocked by the belt. There is another mark "4Z" stamped into the rear cover which roughly lines up with the camshaft sensor tabs. These marks are highlighted in yellow below. You can ignore these marks because they are just there to locate the pin's hole and the toothed window is much more visible.
Raise the engine about 1/4", just enough to get the weight of the engine off the passenger side engine mount and put the passenger side engine mount to be in a neutral position. By getting the weight off the engine mount, it's less likely to strip the threads in the aluminum mount. If the mount threads get stripped, get a new mount since the engine can fall down if the 18mm bolts strip or break.
The factory method to support the engine is to use a support bracket above the car. Refer to your service manual for more details on the bracket. If you want to buy a support bracket like the one pictured below, they are available at Northern Tool or Harbor Freight. Loop chains through the engine lift loop or loop chains through a shackle or large+thick bolt and secure them to the hooks hanging down from the support. Make sure the engine is secure and steady before removing the mount! Make sure your support/chain/bolt/shackle is rated to support the engine/transmission!
The support bracket can also raise and lower the engine. As an aid in raising/lowering the engine I use a hydraulic jack on the oil pan with a piece of wood as a buffer (so it doesn't crack the aluminum oil pan). This should not be the primary method of supporting the engine because hydraulic jacks can suddenly fail. Never put yourself in a position where you could be injured if the jack or engine slips/falls because it may cause damage to property and/or serious injury/death! Before removing the motor mount, make sure the engine is secure!
Loosen all the bolts circled below about a single turn before removing them. This will help hold the mount and engine steady. Then completely remove them. Ignore the torque values, that's for installation. Again, you must securely support the engine BEFORE you remove the red or blue circled bolts or else the engine will fall down! Also note the alignment of the mount since the 18mm bolts have a little bit of adjustment range. This is explained more in part 2 - installation.
It should look something like this after removal. The engine support is holding the engine up since you removed the mount.
Then remove the other motor mount on the engine (3x 16mm bolts). These are tricky to get at because the wheel well is blocking access to all 3 bolts at the same time. Raise and lower the engine for access. Here is the same mount pictured on an earlier engine. Don't bother trying to remove the mount until the timing belt rollers are removed because there isn't enough clearance yet. For now, just work around it. If you can get it out later, good, otherwise just work around it.
The upper right bolt is longer (about 120mm long) than the other 2 bolts (about 94mm long). If the shorter 16mm bolt holes or the engine mount tab on the engine block are broken you can use the mount repair kit from dieselgeek to fix it. Although the service manual doesn't suggest replacing these bolts, some mechanics do it because they are holding the engine up and repeated use could cause failure. New bolts will stress the mounting tab less but it normally breaks from under/over torquing the bolt. Below is a similar engine for illustration (mount is the same).
Release tension on the timing belt tensioner by loosening its 15mm nut. Insert a 6mm allen wrench or spanner wrench VW# 3387 (fits in the 2 pegs) into the center part and turn it counter clockwise. If the tensioner is being reused, the service manual says to insert the triangle lock pin, VW tool# T10115. The tensioner will stay in the released position even if you don't use the VW triangle pin. You should never reuse an old tensioner during routine timing belt changes since it will almost certainly fail before the next scheduled service. Since tensioners are so cheap, I suggest replacing it with a new one every time the timing belt is removed unless it was just changed.
Remove the idler pulley (13mm nut). It will not last until the next scheduled service so always replace it. Don't tighten the new nut yet. If you can slip off the belt do it now.
If the belt is too tight, remove the 3x 13mm camshaft sprocket bolts but don't loosen or turn the center 18mm bolt. If you move the 18mm center bolt it will move the camshaft and you don't want that. Removing the camshaft sprocket will not move the camshaft. You have to remove the pin VW tool T3359 to remove the sprocket but don't worry, the camshaft won't move and the pin will go back in with no problem later.
Remove the water pump. It should be replaced before every 100,000 miles as part of the timing belt replacement. See 1000q: engine water pump replacement for more details.
Here is a view of a similar engine (BHW) for illustration. The timing belt routing is.....
.....part 3/3 and the rest of this detailed procedure and pictures are in the premium members only section. Please upgrade your account to premium: http://www.myturbodiesel.com/account/upgrades to view. The forum post where this is continued is linked here. Thank you for your support!