Audi TT brake carrier conversion-mk4

Apr 24, 2014
Audi TT brake carrier conversion-mk4
  • Audi TT brake carrier conversion

    This shows how to instal an Audi TT big brake kit onto your VW

    Difficulty: 3/5

    Introduction
    The stock brake calipers on the TDI are not swappable with larger brake kits. You have to first swap your spindle/steering knuckle/hub assembly/the part that the brake calipers bolt on to, for a spindle from a 1.8T/VR6 VW car of the same generation. The VW golf R32/Audi TT spindle will also work but requires more parts to be swapped for it to work, please refer to 1000q: brake kit FAQ and index for a detailed list of big brake kits and more FAQ, this article is only a how to. Also see 1000q: VW Golf R32/Audi TT spindle swap for how to use the adjustable lower control arms and the spindle from those cars.

    Parts

    2 brake carriers (pictured are 2 x Audi TT carriers #8N0 615 125)
    2 brake rotors (pictured are 2 x 312mm brake rotors #8L0 615 301)
    brake cleaner
    brake caliper paint (if desired)

    7mm hex socket or wrench
    18, 19mm sockets and wrench
    torque wrench
    anti-seize
    brake grease
    screwdrivers and pliers
    breaker bar
    wire brush

    Procedure
    Disclaimer: Before you attempt a big brake conversion or any brake work on your car, refer to the factory service manual and follow all precautions. Any and all information presented on this website is superseded by the official service manual and is not a substitute for the services or advice of a certified professional mechanic.

    Chock the rear wheels, put on the parking brake, and put the car in gear if it's a manual transmission. Jack up the end of the car you want to work on (using the factory jack points) so that the tire is just barely touching the ground. Remove the center cap to get to the lug bolts, and loosen but don't remove the bolts. Note: If you try to loosen the lug bolts with the car's full weight resting on the wheel, it will make removing the lug bolts harder. Do not completely loosen the lug bolts because the car is not secure when on the jacks only. Also try using a breaker bar to increase leverage, or your foot. Your legs are a lot stronger and are a longer lever than your arms, so using your legs will make it easier and faster.

    Once the lug bolts are loosened but not removed, finish jacking up the car and rest the vehicle securely on jack stands. Remove the lug bolts and the wheel. Make sure the car is secure before doing anything else.

    Remove the plastic plugs for the alignment pins and use the 7mm hex tool to remove the alignment pin. Remove the anti-rattle wires using the flat tip screwdriver and then the caliper saddle and place it so the brake line does not stretch out and cause damage to inner rubber tubing.

    Using the breaker bar, socket wrench, and 18mm socket remove the carrier, remove the two bolts on the bearing housing holding the carrier. Notice the thread locker compound on the bolts.

    Remove the brake disc rotor alignment screw using the impact screwdriver set. Using a soft faced hammer or rubber mallet to tap the disc rotor loose. Use the wire brush to clean the surface of the hub.

    Clean inside of axle nut area and paint with sprat paint (do this to prevent rust in this area)

    Installation
    Apply the anti-seize compound on the hub and clean the new rotors with brake parts cleaner. Install rotor, use anti-seize on the screw too. Make sure the rotor fits good and flat (this is why you used the wire brush)

    Install the caliper carrier to the bearing housing using the 18mm socket and wrench, apply lock tight or some kind of tread locking compound to these bolts. Finish off tightening these bolts with the breaker bar. Make sure these are tight.


    Apply a thin coat of anti-seize compound on the milled surfaces of the carrier, install the caliper saddle with pads. Open up the caliper if needed to make room for the new pads and rotor. Install the pads using the disc brake compound which secure the pads to the caliper to prevent pad rattle and squeal. Install the 7mm alignment pins to the caliper and carrier. No tread lock is needed here and the pins should not be over tightened, reinstall the plastic plugs to the rubber sleeves.

    Install the anti-rattle wires to the carrier and caliper using the long nosed pliers, try not to scratch your paint job.


    Reinstall the wheels and use torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts. Set torque wrench to either 110Nm or 80 ft lbs.

    Lower the car and apply the brakes a few times to set the calipers to the rotor.

    Test drive, apply the brakes often to allow the brakes to heat up and mate with the pads. Note: make sure to turn off your stereo to listen for any unusual sounds and feel steering wheel for any vibrations.