2010 VW Golf TDI (type #3) fuel filter removal and replacement service
2010 VW Golf TDI (type #3) fuel filter removal and replacementDifficulty: 2/5
This article shows how to remove and service the fuel filter on a 2010 VW Golf TDI (filter #3 only).
If you have a 2009+ mk5/mk6 VW Jetta TDI with fuel filter canister style #1 or 2 shown below, use this article: 1000q: 2009+ fuel filter change . If you have a 2005.5-2006 mk5 model, ignore the newer engine pages and read this article: 1000q: 2005-2006 fuel filter. Before you service the fuel filter, read it for some additional notes not in this article. The fuel filter should be changed every 20,000 miles or as needed.
mk5/mk6 Jetta/Golf/Sportwagen TDI engines used 3 different fuel filter cartridges for 3 different styles of fuel filter canister. #1 and 2 are interchangeable but the third is completely different. This third type of fuel filter was used on almost all 2010 Golf TDI. The Audi A3 TDI used the same engine but with its own fuel filter canister and filter cartridge. Because of these differences, this article is specific to the 2010 VW Golf TDI or style #3. If your fuel filter does not look like the one shown, refer to the other article.
If your fuel filter housing is picture #1 or #2, you use the wide mouth "2 hole" filter (they are interchangeable). Refer to the other article. If your filter housing is picture #3, you use the narrow mouth 1 hole filter and use this article. Filter #3 is shorter than the other ones so it's not interchangeable. (click to enlarge the pics) The wide mouth filter housing uses the star shaped cap on #1 and #2 vs. the wide lip cap on #3. #1 has a bleed screw in the middle of the cap and the others don't. #1 also has a bayonet clamp so you can remove the housing by pulling it up and out. The others are secured to the motor mount by 3x 10mm bolts/nut. Inside the housing, the filters for type "no suffix" and "a", #1 and 2 have an olympic ring seal in the cap. Suffix "b" shown in picture 3 has NO olympic ring seal.
f your fuel filter housing is picture #3, use VW# 1k0 127 434 b or 1k0 127 177 b , from kermatdi, or from IDparts
Parts (click links to check current prices, some prices include shipping)
T30 torx screwdriver/wrench bit
VCDS cable from ross tech
1 fuel filter: VW# 1k0 127 434 b or 1k0 127 177 b from KermaTDI
The procedure is by user TDI Hoo. For support on this article please ask in this forum thread.
Here are pictures from my 2010 Golf TDI:
Again, notice the wide flange with the notch toward the passenger side. Here is a what the factory 1K0 127 434 B fuel filter looks like. It does have a narrow center hole with a green circular gasket seal. And it is a one hole filter, meaning that that there is a hole on top to snap into the canister cover, but it is solid on the other side. That is what confused me in Chitty's write-up.
Above, on the left is the 20K mile used fuel filter, and the new one is on the right. Below, I show the solid side that is on the bottom in the canister.
The tools you need are only a few.
1. Torx 30 (T30) screwdriver or bit
3. Paper Towels
4. OPTIONAL (but may be helpful)
1 gallon fuel container
90 degree angle screwdriver or paint can opener
I found that squirting the 5 T30 screws with PB Blaster, waiting 2 minutes, tapping them with a hammer, indeed loosened them. The dealer did the previous 2 filter changes and the screws were pretty tight.
Yes, you need to cover the surrounding hoses with paper towels, especially the first time you do this. There is a notch in the cannister cover, and the angle screwdriver or paint can cover remover fit in the notch very nicely. Below, I show the notch.
Next, after the top is pried up, it looks like this.
The reason you need the paper towels is because separating the top of the fuel filter from the cover causes the filter to rather quickly fall into the canister, resulting in a splash. If you use the siphon to remove the fuel in the canister before you separate the filter from the cover, you can avoid the splash. Once you do the filter change, you may be able to gauge more accurately how much force is needed to pull it off the cover on ensuing filter changes. I made a mess. Thank you, paper towels.
Once you take out the filter, there is still about 2 inches of diesel fuel left in the canister. I used the siphon to remove the fuel and put in in the 1 gallon container. I then poured that fuel back in the tank. My canister was spotlessly clean. No metal flakes. No residue or dirt on the sides or bottom. Others write that you can just leave the fuel in the canister and put in a new filter. The Bentley manual shows a VW siphon device that already has the fuel container attached. My separate siphon and fuel container is a reasonable substitute, simple and not more than $18 for both. I put the used fuel filter in one of those plastic bags my morning newspaper arrives in.
Here's a picture of the cover showing the black gasket:
Here is how I get off the gasket:
I replaced the gasket, coated it with diesel fuel.
I put the cover back on and tightened the T30 screws in a star pattern, like one does with lug bolts on a wheel, and tightened to 3.7 ft lbs, or 44 inch lbs, 5NM, per the other DIY.
I then hooked up VCDS and ran the Fuel Pump Relay Circuit for 1 minute. I then ran the Relay for Auxiliary Fuel Pump for 1 minute. (per the other DIY).
I started the car, checked for leakage at the canister, then drove the car. No stumbles or stalls. Whole thing took 20 minutes. I think it will be faster the next time.
Below is a general picture showing routing of the fuel lines if you removed them.