New Member Into w/successful time belt change

Discussion in 'VW Mk4 Jetta, Golf, New Beetle, Passat TDI forum' started by Ken Wallace, Apr 14, 2012.

  1. Ken Wallace

    Ken Wallace New Member

    Joined:
    Apr 7, 2012
    Messages:
    5
    Car:
    Golf TDI, 2006
    Mods:
    none
    I have a 2006 Golf TDI in San Diego, California. I just got it with 80k miles and have driven it 2000 miles in a couple of weeks. It was time for a new belt so I found your excellent guide.

    After doing the job using the crank lock and cam pin, I have a few questions and observations.
    1) It seems strange that the new tensioner comes with a little pin that locks it. This implies that the spring in the tensioner needs to be wound up prior to installation so that releasing it will force the tensioner against the belt. But the videos do not show the pin being used. I installed mine without using the pin. It seems the force of pressing the tensioner against the belt by turning the free-floating internal hub with a 6mm hex key does the work of loading the spring as indicated by the movement of the pointer. It is quite confusing and the tensioner did not come with any instructions.

    2) With careful use of the crank lock and the cam pin, I still found my car's torque curve was changed from before the belt change. So, I experimented a little with retarding and advancing slightly. WOW! that thing is sensitive. It was hardly drivable with a few degrees of change + or -.
    I put it right back where it started with the bolts exactly centered in the slotted holes and it runs pretty well, and it has more high RPM torque than before and runs smoother at 3000 RPM, but lacks the wonderful low end grunt torque that I loved about it before the belt change. Idle is smooth. The Ross-Tech folks say their unit does not do anything for PDs, so I am not sure how I should proceed to fine tune back to the torque curve I had initially. I am guessing I need 0.5 degree or less change.

    3) I have read on this form about people with PD cars who say the don't have good low end torque, but the engine comes to life higher up. This is said to be a sign of worn cam disease. However since my car ran great at all speeds before and has sluggish low end torque immediately after the belt change, I wonder if a lot of these folks may actually just have timing issues??

    Thanks,
    Ken Wallace, San Diego
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  2. chittychittybangbang

    chittychittybangbang Administrator

    Joined:
    May 23, 2007
    Messages:
    22,048
    Car:
    2006 Jetta TDI
    Location:
    CT
    1. You're supposed to be able to get a tiny bit more slack on the belt by using the pin. I honestly never noticed a difference - it's still pretty tight so I just remove the cam sprocket. Very loose after that and the cam won't move.

    2. You got it. Now you know why people say use the tools! So many people ask why can't I just count the teeth, well good on them and whatever works. As you know, adjust cam timing as linked from end of article. .5 degree prob won't do much. You must have been changing it by more.
  3. girlwatcher

    girlwatcher New Member

    Joined:
    Apr 15, 2012
    Messages:
    1
    Car:
    81 caddy - 2004 jetta diesel
    girlwatcher

    New to the site. Have been here many times reading. So I started changing timeing belt. Now I need to get to part 2 . I've done the belt on my caddy, this is my first TDI:

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