Looking at DIY camshaft replacement

Discussion in 'Mk5 VW Jetta, Sportwagen, and Audi A3 TDI forum' started by grantstory, Apr 2, 2012.

  1. grantstory

    grantstory New Member

    Joined:
    Apr 2, 2012
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    2
    Car:
    2006 Jetta TDI
    I'm here because air was going the wrong way out of my intake... not good (thump-thump-thump noise).

    It's an '06 TDI with about 180K miles.

    I removed my valve cover tonight and found at least two worn lobe edges, some cupping on the lifters, and a gauge out of another lobe. We've had some power loss, not terribly noticeable though.

    So, I'm particularly interested in the camshaft replacement procedures at the moment... thanks in advance for all your collective wisdom!
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  2. chittychittybangbang

    chittychittybangbang Administrator

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    Car:
    2006 Jetta TDI
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    Welcome, at least it's not worn through the lifter faces!welcometomyturbodies
  3. troubleclef5

    troubleclef5 New Member

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    Apr 13, 2012
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    Car:
    2006 VW Jetta TDI
    Same boat...

    I found this site while looking for camshaft replacement advice as well. Thanks for all the DIY advice you have on here, this looks like the start of a beautiful friendship.
  4. TwinCamMan

    TwinCamMan New Member

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    Jan 20, 2012
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    Car:
    Superb CR170 2009
    Does it matter much if it has worn through the lifter faces? My uncle dropped his car up to me and it had worn a hole 6.5mm x 3.5mm in it. I know it's not good for the bits of metal flying around the engine but there is more worn off the cam as it was worn down to 58.2mm on the lobe nearest the camshaft. The other lobes are measuring nearly 62mm.

    I replace the camshaft, bearings and lifters on the car along with timing belt and it's failing to start for me now. There is diesel getting to it. The only thing to note is that the timing was heavily retarded (about one tooth) on the old timing belt, and when the new belt was put on (set up with the timing tools) with the timing window in its optimum position it is one tooth off from the old belt, which should be right. I turned the engine over about 10 times by hand and there was no unusual resistance (ie. pistons touching valves)

    Previously when I've changed timing belts on VW/Audi tdi's I've only ever adjusted the timing with the VCDS in place. Is there ever a case that the timing would need to be tweaked to get it to start?
  5. chittychittybangbang

    chittychittybangbang Administrator

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    Car:
    2006 Jetta TDI
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    Check if your engine uses t10050 or t10100, I don't know which your engine would use. Also triple check timing belt and cam position. Check out idle adjustment/camshaft timing article too for some more timing tips.
  6. TwinCamMan

    TwinCamMan New Member

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    Car:
    Superb CR170 2009
    Thanks chittychittybangbang, the engine is a 1.9 tdi AVF engine which uses the t10050 tool. Before I removed the old belt, I checked that the crank locking tool and the camshaft locking pin fitted as they should do and they fitted fine. With everything locked in place I took off the belt and later removed and replaced the camshaft. On reassembly of the camshaft assembly I ensured that the the crank locking tool had not been disturbed and that the camshaft locking pin was fitting as before.

    I manually turned the engine over ten times, each time checking that the crank locking tool and the camshaft locking pin fitted as they should do. Each time it was perfect, so I'm happy there.

    I've done about 7 timing belt changes on this type of VW/Audi engines and am stumped as this it the first time it has failed to start.
  7. chittychittybangbang

    chittychittybangbang Administrator

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    did you remove fuel lines? If so they're probably dry, check out fuel filter change article for priming.
  8. TwinCamMan

    TwinCamMan New Member

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    Car:
    Superb CR170 2009
    Thanks again chittychittybangbang, I went back over everything again last night and everything is absolutely perfect. Cam locking pin, crankshaft locking tool, tensioner sitting right and even checked that the "4Z" arrow on the rear of the timing belt cover was pointing between the two lugs for the camshaft position sensor. I compared it to the photos that I was taking along the way (something I always do - in case something like this happened!). All perfect.

    I replaced the diesel filter at the same time that I was bleeding the system due to the tandem pump being unbolted from the rear of the engine. After a good steady flow with no bubbles was achieved from the exit of the diesel filter the pipe was reconnected and primed a few more times.

    Although the car wouldn't start I decided to put the VCDS on the car and scan it anyway, it threw up 4 engine codes. These weren't on the car beforehand as I scanned the car a week ago and they weren't there. Is there a connector block or section of wiring that all these have in common? The cam position sensor was only touched to wipe the light coat of dust off it.

    The fault codes that came up are below.

    Address 01: Engine Labels: 038-906-019-AVF.lbl
    Part No: 038 906 019 JT
    Component: 1,9l R4 EDC 0000SG 1572
    Coding: 00003
    Shop #: WSC 63351
    VCID: 72E05F713EB4009
    WAUZZZ8E83A299265 AUZ6Z0B0393531

    4 Faults Found:
    17564 - Manifold Pressure Sensor (G71)
    P1156 - 35-10 - Open/Short to Ground - Intermittent
    17569 - Manifold Temp Sensor (G72)
    P1161 - 35-00 - Open or Short to Plus
    18080 - Coolant Fan Control 1
    P1672 - 35-10 - Open or Short to Ground - Intermittent
    19464 - Camshaft Position Sensor (G40)
    P3008 - 00-00 - Signal Out of Range
  9. chittychittybangbang

    chittychittybangbang Administrator

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    first 3 is wiring or sensor problems.

    last is cam is out of position. since you said timing is OK must be wiring. I know that sensor passes by the glow plugs.
  10. TwinCamMan

    TwinCamMan New Member

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    Car:
    Superb CR170 2009
    Thanks again, after double checking every connector block that I was near including inspecting the wiring that runs from the cam sensor back to the bulkhead still got no joy.

    I read up here that if you disconnect the cam position sensor it automatically by passes it and just runs at it's optimum but still no joy. I'm going to try scanning the car before and after disconnecting the cam sensor but if I get no joy there I'm going to be stumped.
  11. Conroe TDI

    Conroe TDI New Member

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    Feb 14, 2012
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    Car:
    2006 Jetta TDI
    06 Jetta BRM

    I too, will be looking to replace my cam. Although the cam is about 15k miles old. I would like to install the Colt stage 2 cam before I invest in some other power adders. My jetta has a rebuilt motor that was installed before I purchased the car. Also has new DSG flywheels.
    By the way, love the forum. Great stuff.
    New to the forum, just jointed.
  12. TwinCamMan

    TwinCamMan New Member

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    Car:
    Superb CR170 2009
    Welcome Conroe, hope you enjoy the forum.

    An update on the progress goes as follow, from connecting and disconnecting the wiring and running VCDS scans I have now reached the stage where all error codes for the engine are now gone but it still won't start.

    On going back to basics, heat and diesel, I took a quick look at the glowplugs before I finished for the night. While I didn't check the voltage going to them yet I did put an infra red thermometer at the joint where the glow plugs enter the engine block and there was no heat at all, and no change in temperature. There is also no error code on the VCDS. Surely there should be some change in temperature on the exterior of the glowplugs, can anyone confirm this for me?
  13. TwinCamMan

    TwinCamMan New Member

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    Car:
    Superb CR170 2009
    At last, the solution.

    Ok so I worked it out that the glowplugs only get power when you crank the engine. I also found why it wouldn't start for me.

    When the tandem pump had to be bled, priming the pump by turning the key in the ignition will only get rid of some of the air in the system. I changed the diesel filter and used that method until I reached the stage where there were no more bubbles coming out of the exit of the filter before connecting the pipe and re-primed the system several times.

    The only way to bleed the system properly it to have the pump running constantly, and if the car won't start for you, you'll have to used the VCDS. For those that need to know, with the ignition on but the engine off (obviously, or you wouldn't have this problem) go to "Select", "Engine", "Basic Settings" and go to channel 35 and press "Go". This then primes the system for about 20 - 30 seconds, do this a few times until you can no longer hear the fuel traveling in the system. 4 to 5 goes had me sorted. And started with a few cranks of the starter.

    Now just to put the nose on the back of the car, run in the cam, adjust the timing, and do an oil and filter change and hopefully I wont have hassle of this level for the next 210,000 miles.

    Thanks chittychittybangbang for all your help throughout.
  14. Shadowkiller

    Shadowkiller New Member

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    Apr 18, 2012
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    Car:
    Golf 1.9tdi 2002
    New to the forum and I am in the process of replacing the cam on a friends Golf, seems like a popular pastime in VW land!!

    Thanks for the great resource.:bowdown
  15. grantstory

    grantstory New Member

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    Apr 2, 2012
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    Car:
    2006 Jetta TDI
    Just an update... with the new Bora cam and cut bearings from Frank06, the camshaft is in and the jetta now purrs away. There was some initial difficulty with one of the bearings, but Bora parts really bent over backwards to get me back on the road. Frank06 was super helpful and knowledgeable. I would confidently use both in the future for VW/Audi parts.
  16. jetta2006mari

    jetta2006mari New Member

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    Jan 29, 2012
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    Car:
    jetta/2006
    jetta 2006 brm cam to replace

    How to remove cover to see the problems?
  17. chittychittybangbang

    chittychittybangbang Administrator

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