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How to use diesel purge injector cleaner on a VW or Audi TDI engine

41K views 14 replies 7 participants last post by  chittychittybangbang 
#1 · (Edited)
I did notice less smoke on engine start and on hard acceleration after using the diesel purge. I'll probably add some more videos and other model notes later but here is the procedure on a 2006 VW Jetta TDI. I don't yet know if it's safe to use this product on a 2009+ engine so I would personally not do so. Older engine are pretty much the same except 2003 and earlier engines don't have a tank fuel pump so no need to plug the lines.


 
#2 ·
I'm just wondering why he has a filter on the return line he says I don't want anything that is flushed loose returning back to the engine. The fuel is filtered before it reaches the engine so why filter it going back?

He than says make sure the cleaner in the container remains full or at least the return line remains in the cleaner else you will have problems starting the engine. This is the return to the tank so that should make any difference as there can be air bubbles in it.

You could put a can of this fuel clean in your tank when its getting low with 2-3 gallons left in it and drive it. We have had this diesel cleaner in the UK for many many years.
 
#3 ·
I added an inline filter on the fuel going back to the engine because I bypassed the fuel filter. Some people have said some black chunks ended up in the diesel purge can so the filter will catch any large pieces. In my case, no visible debris. Keithuk, the lines going back to-from the fuel tank were connected to avoid fuel coming out of them. The lines going to-from the engine went into the diesel purge.

Yeah, putting it in the fuel tank is the easy way :D
 
#4 · (Edited)
The first video shows the mk5 and newer style fuel filters. I just added a video for the mk4 and older style fuel filters. Although a 2005 VW Passat TDI is shown, the same basic type of fuel filter setup is on VW Golf TDI, VW Jetta TDI, and VW New Beetle TDI. The only minor differences are;

If you have a PD engine it has a fuel pump in the fuel tank. Therefore, you must plug the fuel lines. If you don't have an in tank fuel pump the fuel lines coming from the tank can stay open.

Minor differences in engine cover styles.

Other than that it's pretty much the same idea.

 
#8 ·
I know this is an old post, but where can you get this stuff. Have tried to search the company on the internet and the only thing I can find is Liqui Moly Diesel Purge. Is this the same, just under a different/new name?

I have found the Lubro Moly at a couple sites, but if the Liqui Moly is newer I would rather use this instead.
 
#11 ·
I honestly do not remember but you can try 1/4". A warning on the 09+ engines, I wouldn't want big gulps of air in there and I don't know how they react to diesel purge. The injection pressure and nozzle hole size isn't anything radical compared to the PD engines but I do know they run the fuel hotter. So be careful of your jug and hoses getting hot.
 
#12 ·
I realize this is dated, but just want to make sure I understand the details. I purchased all the parts needed ... I hope ... and am ready to begin. My car is also a 2006, and mileage is low due to our being senior citizens; about 30k at this moment. Sits in the garage more than on the highway. Anyway, my question is: I see folks discussing a oil and filter change after the purge.

About 1 or 2k ago, I did all the filter changes, and oil also.
So is another change of the oil and oil filter needed with the low usage ??
Note: Thru a member of the TDIClub forum, I also have the oil filter installed that filters minute particles, along with the factory filter as well.

TIA



I did notice less smoke on engine start and on hard acceleration after using the diesel purge. I'll probably add some more videos and other model notes later but here is the procedure on a 2006 VW Jetta TDI. I don't yet know if it's safe to use this product on a 2009+ engine so I would personally not do so. Older engine are pretty much the same except 2003 and earlier engines don't have a tank fuel pump so no need to plug the lines.

 
#13 ·
I wouldn't. Sure a tiny bit will get into the oil but if it's good enough to burn in the engine a few drops in the oil will be insignificant. If the car is fully warmed up it'll help minimize this since the engine will be tighter.

Also, with only 30k miles, I don't think it's got very much buildup! You only have to worry about the timing belt change from age vs. mileage!
 
#14 ·
Also, with only 30k miles, I don't think it's got very much buildup! You only have to worry about the timing belt change from age vs. mileage!
Had not thought of that ... mileage.
Am aware of the 'threat' come something like 80-90k miles ... but this is interesting ... and informative also.

Now with 7 years of age, guess I should get busy.
Have a long trip planned come Xmas this year to Kentucky ... from Texas ... and sure would not be a happy dude if it broke miles from home.

THANKS !
 
#15 ·
These aren't "rubber" belts, they have a lot of kevlar and I believe, neoprene compounds. Texas heat won't help but considering the extreme low mileage, I think 7 years is well within the safe zone. This is a TOTAL guess but with such low mileage I'd feel safe in that car until the belt is 10 years old. Contitech calls for 6 years and various manufacturers have different specs which are superseded by manufacturer recommendations.

Over 10 years and I would change it for peace of mind. Over 15 years, and you're really risking it unless the car was in cool storage... My nissan 300zx twin turbo's belt was 13 years old but with only 50% mileage left on the belt. That engine bay got so hot all the wiring became brittle and the plastic plugs cracked if you so much as looked at them. But the timing belt wasn't cracked and I still drove it hard. Then again, VW-Audi 1.8T engines were known for starting to fail when the mileage was only 80% of the change interval. Lucky for you the BRM engines aren't known for throwing belts early :D

Obviously, inspect the pulleys for leaking grease and the belt for surface cracking and you should change the serpentine belt since it's so easy and cheap, and also exposed to dust and whatnot vs. the timing belt inside the cover.
 
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