Not out of a sense of pride or curiosity...mostly because I am not able to justify 1500$ to fix what is likely a faulty turbo actuator on a car that isn't worth that much. Background: My car "runs" just fine. I have not been kind to it and it is starting to bite me in the ass. The car in question is an MK4 2006 Golf Tdi. I have never done anything major on a vehicle but I'm fairly mechanically inclined. I have a second vehicle that I can use if it gets knocked offline but I would rather not botch it that badly. Symptoms: -Sluggish acceleration. To go from zero to 100km/h it takes nearly 25 seconds on a flat road. -Poor fuel mileage (650 km to a tank, granted mostly city driving)' -With the accelerator flat on the floor the engine revs and seems to shift just fine but there's just not enough "oomph" to get me going. -Sounds and feels like driving a very ambitious lawn tractor. Things I am told: -I am told my turbo's exhaust manifold is likely to be clogged and shitty -I am told I have a sticky "gate". What this is and why it sticks is a mystery to me. -I am told my actuator is likely starting to give, failing that my turbo vanes are sticking. Other issues I am having: My muffler is just for show. I smell like a fueling station at all times and sound like a highschool kid's sad Honda. My understanding of muffler replacement is to take an angle grinder to it and then put on a new universal one. If I am wrong and it's actually more complicated than that please enlighten me. All of that being said I've come to ask some questions to keep myself from making dumb mistakes while attempting to repair the turbo actuator. My understanding is that the mechanism could be damaged, the vaccuum line could be damaged or the wiring harness could be damaged. It is seemingly unlikely that the turbo proper is damaged. 1) If I get myself a mityvac/handvac what sort of attatchments do I need to make the connection to the vacuum line? 2) If I get a replacement actuator (from the prices I've seen I may as well) what kind will I need? I had read (somewhere) that I may need to retrofit a newer one onto the car with a bracket. 3) While I am down there ****ing around, is there anything else that is prudent to do? I plan to replace the vacuum lines just on principle 4) If I have to replace the actuator (rather than a faulty solenoid or busted vac line) is it something that requires additional adjustments? I vaguely remember skimming over something about timing to the turbo. I would assume it has something to do with actuator length. 5) What am I missing? I've read up a bit and it seems like its not really rocket science but that doesnt mean anything if I get under the car and am completely wrong. Thanks in advance. I'm actually sort of looking forward to fixing this on my own rather than paying some one but I really don't want to add to the bill by botching it.