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* DIY: Retrofitting a backup camera (BUC) onto a Golf/Jetta Sportwagen

Discussion in 'VW Mk6 Golf, Jetta, Beetle, Sportwagen TDI forum' started by Code3VW, Feb 21, 2011.

  1. Code3VW

    Code3VW New Member

    Joined:
    Sep 6, 2010
    Messages:
    2
    DISCLAIMER: The following guide, technique, images, screenshots, dialogue, instructions, requests, and information in this thread are not guaranteed, warrantied, or ensured to work on all vehicles, your vehicle, or any vehicle. Users proceed at their own risk. Poster is not responsible for any errors, accidents, negligent or reckless behavior, or any other behavior conducted by the user regarding any information in this thread.


    From what I know, I have the first Jetta Sportwagen in North America to be fitted with an OEM backup camera. I tried to take pictures during the install, but had to stop as time was becoming of the essence. I will try and walk people through the install to the best of my ability, with pictures supplementing only some of the way.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]



    First, a special thanks to those critical in the install:

    I'd like to thank the vortexpert for the time, patience, and skill he employed to assist me in getting this camera installed. Without his help, I am sure there would have been broken tabs, stripped screws, and deformed interior panels.

    I'd like to thank George and Tony in parts at Camelback VW in Phoenix, AZ. Without you the install would not have happened, as I would not have had parts to install!

    Lastly, I'd like to thank maloosheck for building me the harness to power the camera, and for giving me pointers on how to get the install done. The harnesses that he produces are OEM-quality, right down to the VW part number connectors, and the VW-style tape he uses to loom the harness.

    Ok, let's get started...

    Required Items
    #1. RNS-510 navigation system. Please do not ask me "does the [blank] radio from VW work with a backup camera." If you would like to know this answer, please purchase me the radio that you would like to find out about, ship it to me, and I will let you know if it works, but as payment, I will keep the radio.

    Here is a list of radios that do work: RNS-510
    Here is a list of radios that do not work: North American Spec RCD-510

    Why, you ask? This is why:

    [​IMG]

    The radio must have the port to plug in the backup camera (circled in green). If your radio has this, the camera *should* work. If it doesn't, the camera will not work. I stole this picture from another thread.

    #2. The camera. For the Jetta Sportwagen, Golf Sportwagen, Golf Wagon, Jetta Variant, and/or the Golf Variant, the part number for the rear handle with the camera is 5N0 827 566J.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Inquire with your "parts guy" for your price on this item.

    #3. The video cable. The part number for the video cable is 5M1 970 161 AC. This is for the Golf/GTI, but it is long enough to work for the Sportwagen as well.


    [​IMG]

    As you can see, one end has the black connector for the back of the radio, the other end has the blue connector to attach to the camera at the handle. You don't need the red power wire for our install, so just separate it from the black harness.

    #4. The power harness. There is no part number for this, as far as I know. Maloosheck made me a harness that consisted of the three wires needed to power the camera. The red wire is power, and needs to be inserted into the fuse panel in spot #16, which is the spot that it is located in in Europe. The yellow wire connects to the CECM in connector C, pin 28. This is the right side reverse bulb wire, which needs to be run in the harness as well, otherwise the camera will receive the signal, and your reverse light will not. His harness includes the necessary connectors to make them both receive the signal. Lastly, brown is ground.

    Please contact maloosheck for this harness. As I mentioned earlier, they are OEM quality. This man knows what he is doing!

    #5. You need to know how to remove the radio. I will not be covering this in the DIY as there are many other DIYs that cover this. Check the FAQ for installing an RNS-510, as this will include a DIY of how to remove the radio.

    #6. Tools needed: Pin removal tool, T20 screwdriver, T25 screwdriver, 13mm socket, a flathead screwdriver or trim removal tools, a 5amp small fuse for the fuse box, a VCDS/vagcom or volkswagen scan tool, gloves so you don't muck up your interior with your grubby little fingers, and patience.

    How-to


    [​IMG]

    We need space to work. So first things first, we are going to remove the cluster. You need to unclip the trim in front of the cluster to access the two screws that hold the cluster in place. Gently pull on this trim to release it.


    [​IMG]

    Now, you will see the cluster's screws. In this picture, notice the 4 silver clips above the 2 screw holes being pointed out. This is how that trim is held in place. Remove the two T20 screws that hold the trim in place.


    [​IMG]

    Now, you need to remove the harness from the cluster. On the back is this blue connector. To remove it, press down on the little tab as shown in the picture, and then rotate the pink part of the connector up, this will release the connector from the back of the cluster.


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Cluster is out! See that T20 screw in the bottom left of the picture above the black trim on the dash? Remove it. The second picture shows its location too.


    [​IMG]

    Remove the headlight switch. To do this, put the switch to 0 (off position), push the switch in (towards engine), and turn it clockwise. This will release the little arms inside, to allow you to pull the headlight switch towards the rear of the car, and out. Unplug the harness from the headlight switch and remove it. Then remove the T20 screw at the top behind where the headlight switch was just located.


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Contort your body underneath the dash to remove the two T20 screws holding in the bottom part of this trim panel. The second picture shows their location.


    [​IMG]

    Unplug the rheostat and the trim panel is free!


    [​IMG]

    Now remove the kick panel from underneath the dash. This houses the OBD2/diagnostic port, the footwell lights, etc. There are 5 T20s that hold this in place. Once it falls, disconnect the OBD2 port, and the footwell light connector.


    [​IMG]

    The next order of business is to remove the metal bracket pictured here. There are 6 (I believe) 13mm bolts holding this in place. Remove them, and pull the bracket out.

    Also, take notice of the back of the fuse box that we are looking at in the left side of the picture. That black piece in the back needs to be unclipped from the front in a later step.


    [​IMG]

    Take the surrounding trim off of the dash and remove the screws that hold the fuse box in place. Then, push it back into the dash and remove that back panel off of the fuse box as pictured in the previous step.


    [​IMG]

    Fuse 16 will be for our camera. Remove the locks on the back, and push the red wire from maloosheck's harness into the open end of fuse 16. Add a 5amp fuse to #16 when the install is complete to avoid blowing the fuse and making troubleshooting more difficult when the camera doesn't turn on the first time (ask me how I know!). :laugh:


    [​IMG]

    Follow the DIY on here for upgrading from a lowline to highline CECM for instructions on removing the CECM itself. We didn't take many pictures from this point on, and the ones we did, were all blurry. Take note of the locations of the connectors, on my car A = black, B = white, and C = brown/tan/gold. Once you get C removed from the CECM, you'll need to remove this colored "lock" on the connector by manipulating the little arms at the top and bottom of the picture above.

    Now, you'll need to use Maloosheck's harness with the yellow wires to tap into pin 28. Use the pin removal tool to remove the current female connector, plug in the female connector from maloosheck's harness in its place, and then plug the male connector from maloosheck's harness into the female connector that used to be in 28. Then use heatshrink to isolate the yellow male/VW pin 28 connection.

    So now the red and yellow wires on the harness are accounted for. The brown is ground, so find a ground near the fuse box and use that. This harness is good to run to the back of the car now.


    Next, you'll need to connect up the video cable from the radio to the camera. Remove the radio, and plug in the black harness into the back of the radio. Then, run the harness up to where the cluster used to sit. From there, you will need to feed the video cable, and maloosheck's power harness up the a pillar, along the headliner, and through the hatch.


    To remove the pillars, use a flathead screwdriver, or trim removal tool, to remove the AIRBAG logos from the A, B, and C pillars. Behind the airbag logos are T25 screws. Remove them, and be careful not to drop them into the pillar. If you drop them, pour some liquor out, because those homies are gone. :laugh:


    Unclip the pillars to allow access to the headliner. Then go to the rear of the car, open the hatch, and remove the trim on the ceiling just behind the trunk light. For details on this, you can lookup information on disconnecting the compass module, as it is up there as well. Start at the center, work your fingers up, and pull down. There are 8 metal clips that hold these in, they are very mean and may need some extra force to remove them.

    Once down, you will have access to the headliner from the front of the car to the rear. Feed the video cable and the power harness up the a pillar BEHIND the curtain airbag, along the headliner and into the trunk. Failure to avoid the airbag could cause the airbag to not deploy properly.

    When you get the two harnesses to the rear, you'll need to unclip the driver's side black rubber channel from the roof of the car, and from the hatch. Now, we need to remove the trim on the hatch itself.

    With the hatch open, look at the areas designated for your hands to close the hatch. Inside are two little plastic covers that are oval. Remove these, and beneath are a T20 screw. Remove the screw. Now, put one hand in there, and the other hand use to keep the hatch from smashing into your face by holding the sheet metal of the hatch. Pull down on your hand in the trim, while applying upwards pressure on the hand holding the hatch, there are clips that will separate and allow the trim to be removed from the bottom half of the hatch. For the top half, there are no screws, just unclip and pull.

    Now, remove the stock non-camera handle from the hatch. It is held in by two bolts. Once the bolts are removed, remove the harness, and you will need to push the handle into the car from the outside, and separate it from the silver metal trim piece. The trim piece will work with the new handle as well. Install the new handle and don't forget to plug in the harness for the handle itself. Now, feed the harnesses through the rubber channel, run them along the existing harness and either tape or ziptie them to the existing harness to keep them in place. Plug them into the camera.

    Now, reassemble the car. Before the camera will work properly, we will need to recode the radio. If you are using a VCDS/vagcom, access controller 37 or 56 (navigation and radio, respectively) and change Byte 3, Bit 6, from 0 to 1. This is labeled "backup camera low (without control module" or something of the sort.

    If you are using a volkswagen scan tool, you need to change the binary or hex for Byte 3 to hex 40, or binary 01000000. This will enable the same options as it does in vagcom, just without Ross-Tech's pretty VCDS interface.

    Next, we need to restart the radio. With the car still on from the vagcom/vcds/scantool work, hold down the < and > buttons on the top of the radio, and the DAY/NIGHT button. Hold all three down until the radio restarts.

    Once the radio restarts, put the car in reverse, and take a look at what you see. Hopefully, you too will see the area behind your car!
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  2. Peter D.

    Peter D. Member

    Joined:
    Oct 18, 2009
    Messages:
    47
    Back Up Camera Mod question

    I found this great DIY on the Vortex:
    http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...f-Jetta-Sportwagen&highlight=rear view camera

    The original poster installed a backup camera that's integrated into the rear trunk release handle of his '10 JSW. I guess it's a Europe-only option.

    I would like to install the same on my '09 but was told by the supplier of the wiring harness that it wouldn't work. He warned that the trunk handle on the 2010 is wider and would not fit without metal fabrication.

    Sooo, if any owner of a 2010 or 2011 JSW is reading this post, would you mind measuring the width of your trunk handle?! The one on my '09 is about 3.5 inches wide.
  3. seanr

    seanr New Member

    Joined:
    Aug 3, 2010
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    22
    What would it take to have the one with the moving lines?
  4. chittychittybangbang

    chittychittybangbang Administrator

    Joined:
    May 23, 2007
    Messages:
    20,925
    Car:
    2006 Jetta TDI
    Location:
    CT
  5. kevapex

    kevapex New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 20, 2008
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    81
    Why can't the one with the moving lines work? Wouldn't it just need a few more wires or coding changes? Any part numbers?
  6. 1analguy

    1analguy New Member

    Joined:
    Sep 25, 2010
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    Car:
    2011 Golf TDI 2dr 6-speed
    Mods:
    205/65-15 LRRs On MSW Type 15s, Euro Switch, Euro
    Last edited by a moderator: Mar 7, 2011
  7. Code3VW

    Code3VW New Member

    Joined:
    Sep 6, 2010
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    The moving lines requires a camera with a control module, not just the camera as is needed for the Jetta Sportwagen.
  8. digitalextremes

    digitalextremes New Member

    Joined:
    Feb 3, 2011
    Messages:
    47
    Car:
    2010 Jetta Sedan Highline TDI
    I got my camera and the harness in the mail, will be doing the install next weekend.

    For a Jetta Sedan, is is possible to run the wire through the area below the doors or carpet near the doors rather than the headliner? I am thinking that would be easier (I did notice some wires running there already on the passenger side when I ran the second channel audio wires for the 9w7.

    Has anyone ran the camera wires from there?
  9. the67beast

    the67beast New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 2, 2011
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    Car:
    2011 Jetta TDI w/ Nav
    Mods:
    Stainless Steel Tips, Rear Lip Spoiler, Color Matc
    i don't see why not. I haven't done the above but I've seen DIY for rear fog light installs and they run the wires on the bottom and then through the trunk
  10. digitalextremes

    digitalextremes New Member

    Joined:
    Feb 3, 2011
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    Car:
    2010 Jetta Sedan Highline TDI
    Ok

    I will attempt next week and take some pics for a DIY.
  11. robkassab

    robkassab New Member

    Joined:
    Apr 22, 2011
    Messages:
    8
    Car:
    2012 Jetta Sportwagen
    I have a 2012 JSW TDI with RNS-315 Radio/Nav unit. The p/n for the camera listed in this thread is: 5N0827566J

    Does anyone know if 5N0827566G (differnce is the "G" versus "J" suffix) will work electrically, as well as physically fit the JSW RNS-315?

    http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/5N0827566G/ES1884664/
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 6, 2011
  12. digitalextremes

    digitalextremes New Member

    Joined:
    Feb 3, 2011
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    Car:
    2010 Jetta Sedan Highline TDI
    Anyone installed the camera on mk5 Jetta?

    Is the hose in the trunk big enough to take the video wire + 1 more 18 awg wire for the fuse box?

    That hose looks way too tight where the wires run from the trunk lid to the car.

    If a there a larger one available?
  13. digitalextremes

    digitalextremes New Member

    Joined:
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    Car:
    2010 Jetta Sedan Highline TDI
    I know someone installed the J on a JSW, it fits.
  14. robkassab

    robkassab New Member

    Joined:
    Apr 22, 2011
    Messages:
    8
    Car:
    2012 Jetta Sportwagen
    This DIY says to connect the red power lead from the Maloosheck cable to fuse position #16 which is not switched with the ignition and therefore is continiously on. Seems odd that this should not be connected to a switched power circuit. Does anyone know what the purpose that the camera should have continous power to it, and would a long-term battery drain be caused by this?
  15. digitalextremes

    digitalextremes New Member

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    Feb 3, 2011
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    Car:
    2010 Jetta Sedan Highline TDI
    One of the rows on the fuse box is switched, just use that and switch to non switched if it doesn't work.
  16. robkassab

    robkassab New Member

    Joined:
    Apr 22, 2011
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    Car:
    2012 Jetta Sportwagen
    Yeah, no kidding. But my question is why was this fuse position choosen? Is it because it needs to always be hot?
  17. digitalextremes

    digitalextremes New Member

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    Feb 3, 2011
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    Car:
    2010 Jetta Sedan Highline TDI
    I would use switched unless there is a reason not to use it, you may want to check with Maloosheck
  18. robkassab

    robkassab New Member

    Joined:
    Apr 22, 2011
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    Car:
    2012 Jetta Sportwagen
    I have posed this question to Maloosheck and am awaiting his reply. However, everything seems to be working just fine so far....
  19. necochino

    necochino New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 28, 2012
    Messages:
    2
    Car:
    2012 Tiguan
    Where do I find Maloosheck? I'm trying a DIY BUC on my wife's 2012 Tiguan. Got the original parts from eBay (same as the pix on top of this thread), but need the harnesses and wiring diagrams. VW does not make it easy.... Please help.
  20. robkassab

    robkassab New Member

    Joined:
    Apr 22, 2011
    Messages:
    8
    Car:
    2012 Jetta Sportwagen

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