Ahhh, a new to me '04 Passat- project that is

Discussion in 'VW Mk4 Jetta, Golf, New Beetle, Passat TDI forum' started by Elbonk, Aug 7, 2012.

  1. Elbonk

    Elbonk New Member

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    Hi, I've got an 04 Passat TDI that was an auction rescue. It runs rough. Powersteering squeeks and there is another noise up front- it sounds like an accessory- but I'm not so sure. The fleet mechanic said they replaced the alternator, PS pump and idler. He stated it was running fine until the driver was coming back from a trip and was leaving the airport and said it had no power. I've checked the front end accessories and everything seems OK. There is a fair amount of bobble on the oil cap- maybe that is blow-by? I checked compression and got 480 to 500 psi. There is a fair amount of oil on the hoses before the turbo (CCV condensation?) and then all the way back on the charge air hoses and some oozing by the MAF and EGR valve.. I have it apart and will clean all the parts up before I run it any more.
    I checked the cam and there is some definite wear but no trashed lifters/cups on the valves.. The rollers on the rockers have some lines but no major galling or grooving.
    I'm curious- If the cam goes flat can the exhaust valves close too soon and the combustion gases trapped in the cylinder caust excessive blow by? Thus, excessive oil in the EGR and CCV?
    As for the oil cap test is that an accurate indicator of blow by? My old OM617 mercedes diesel will idle with the oil cap just sitting in the hole barely moving..
    I've found the issues with the cam and the oil pump, I don't know if all the injectors are firing either. The turbo spins free, moves a little side to side but doesn't contact the housing. I vacuum checked the actuator and it seems to move freely. I don't know if might have a vacuum leak elsewhere or if my vacuum source is still good..

    I also was curious if the Meyle glow plugs are a good replacement- I kind of dropped one during the compression test-OOOPS. IF so, does a 27mm tip sound right?


    Thanks in advance, this sight is excellent..
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  2. chittychittybangbang

    chittychittybangbang Administrator

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    welcometomyturbodies

    squeaking is normally serp idler pulley or alt pulley so that kind of rules those out, could be serp tensioner

    Oil cap should be tight, what do you mean bobble? With the cap loose? If not familiar with TDI, the vac pump exhausts into the head so there'll be some air coming out there and your compression is fine. I'd say it sounds OK just based on what you said.

    See CCV oil leak repair: http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/b5/air-filter-engine-tdi.htm just put some gasket maker there

    closed valves = no since otherwise every combustion there would be excessive blowby. Worn cams = valves not opening, rough idle, low power, other bad stuff.

    Meyle should be OK, I also use Beru. Don't know how long but plenty of online vendors.

    Also check out the b5 buying guide for other catch up main, common probs.

    Good luck! Sounds like you'll need it with this rescue :)
  3. Elbonk

    Elbonk New Member

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    Yup, I've been hammering on the FAQ and the B5 guide.

    I found one post where someone made a block off plate for the EGR-- Are there any bad consequences, like a code getting thrown or can the computer even tell?

    CCV- is it bad to vent it like the old school rigs or will it just get oil all over?
  4. chittychittybangbang

    chittychittybangbang Administrator

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    car knows, MAF feedback loop, will still run fine w/CEL, won't pass emissions w/o chip reflash to account for all this

    It'll get oil all over and leave an oil slick in the engine and onto the road. Some people use catch cans and empty it out, I just route it back like it's designed, no leaks w/gasket maker. Plus, diesels have some blowby and exhaust for vac pump has to go somewhere. I don't want to restrict it at all, can lead to burning oil due to pressure in crankcase.
  5. Elbonk

    Elbonk New Member

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    Gotcha..
    As for the oil cap I was referring to loosening it. I have done this on different diesels I have and there is differences on similar motors on how much the loosened oil cap moves. An old tired mercedes OM617 vs. an old but not tired one, for example. I know the piston reciprocation affects the air flow-
    The older diesels with a direct CCV was an obvious place to look for blow and measure if you have the tools. I don't think this is my issue.
  6. Elbonk

    Elbonk New Member

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    Bullseye Chitty!! I've got a bad OAD or ADP Alternator pulley.. I found some interesting links to videos here and on the TDI forum.. One of them I had seen before when I was seeing if there was some way to settle down my cummins serpentine belt..

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yxV1awVFskA

    Is the pulley a clutch type or a decoupler type, the ladder moves both ways but is limited one direction and spins with little resistance the other way vs. one way or not at all.
    As for the loss of power I found a messed up O-ring right by the intake manifold-hoping to get that next week. I saw one thread that a guy said the OEM gaskets were reusable, is this true?
    The other question I had was about sourcing the alt. pulley (number 022903119C). I found an "INA" brand (Made in Germany) for under $60 shipped. Is this a good brand? Just for kicks I have tried to get my local parts houses and even the VW shop to source parts and they have a real hard time finding anything..
  7. Elbonk

    Elbonk New Member

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    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4EXYP1CmL9Q&feature=related

    This link gives some more clarification on the different types of pulleys. While looking for info on what is best the manufacturers/suppliers frown on doing anything other than using what the system was designed for.
    On my older cummins engine the belt jumps around so bad that is will wear through the radiator hose if it isn't guarded and it would seem to make sense to upgrade to a clutch or decoupler pulley..
  8. chittychittybangbang

    chittychittybangbang Administrator

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    great find on the vid, already added to FAQ! I don't know why editors always add porn music when silence is just fine.

    INA is OEM supplier, good brand
  9. Elbonk

    Elbonk New Member

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    Ok, so I found the 022903119C and also the 022903119D, A and B- the parts suppliers show them as replacement parts. I don't know if they are OWC's (One Way Clutch) or OAD's (Overrunning Alternator Decouplers). I have a few emails out and will let you know what I find. I would think a decoupler would be better judging by what the videos show..
  10. 69mach1377

    69mach1377 Member

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    The latest one is silver and not black, IIRC. $60 seems a bit low for the right one, which should be a 'D' suffix.
  11. Elbonk

    Elbonk New Member

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    This is a link to a patent for a decoupler-

    http://www.google.com/patents?id=tKzPAAAAEBAJ&printsec=abstract&zoom=4#v=onepage&q&f=false


    I found on Gates website their chart described the part as an OWC (one way clutch) and that no special tool was needed either (NOT). All of the OAD lists came up with nothing except a 2010 non-US model of Volkswagen for the decoupler type and litens even referred to there OWC as a decoupler so it seems to me like the suffixes must be finish or design changes.. Whatever.. minutia I suppose but it looks like the spring type isn't what the passat needs..
  12. Elbonk

    Elbonk New Member

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    OK- I now know that a 02 022 903 119C is a 6 groove pulley and is 1/4" longer and isn't the right one for my ride.. The quality looks good and it even had a VW stamp but must be for another model even though is was listed as compatible with my 2004.. It should have a suffix of "B" not "C" ..
  13. Elbonk

    Elbonk New Member

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    I got a refund on the pulley from Vorwerkauto- great ebay outfit and some quality service. I ended up with an INA from my local autoparts store for 65 bucks and it works great. Their list was 133.. I put it all back together and it runs better than it did.
    I took a picture of the bad sealing washer and the little aluminum pellet is something I found inside the hollow of one of the bolts on the top of the head- I have no idea what it was from or what it was doing in there.. It is the size of a .22 caliber bullet. Sorry for the bad pic- I will take a better one..
    The motor didn't have an engine cover on it when I bought it and it seems a bit loud, the tensioner on the timing chain is also not in the notch- should I adjust that? I am planning on a timing belt soon but would like to road test it a little.. Insights and advice are appreciated.
    Thanks again CCBB for providing so many helpful resources here.

    Attached Files:

  14. chittychittybangbang

    chittychittybangbang Administrator

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    If you mean timing belt pointer isn't in the notch, just leave as is unless it's way way off. If you mean back tab isn't in the notch, major problem, imminent failure.
  15. Elbonk

    Elbonk New Member

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    I was referring to the pointer..

    Test drive result--- The check engine light was on, "emission workshop" flashed and the car was gutless. Popped the hood and checked my work and found the sensor on the rigid plastic charge air tube loose, "click". Drove it around a bit and much better performance no CEL or EWS. Still doesn't drive like a hot rod but runs smooth and now I get to save up for a timing belt kit, camshaft kit and the chain eliminator kit... Hmmmm.
    Are these typically snappy or are they a little sluggish when it comes to throttle response?
  16. chittychittybangbang

    chittychittybangbang Administrator

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    there's a little lag from the turbo + auto transmission but there's more power than a comparable year jetta or golf. I wouldn't say snappy compared to a NA 6 cylinder
  17. Elbonk

    Elbonk New Member

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    Normal Video..

    I think my motor sounds normal- What do you think?

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-UKl9H9p2lI&list=UU3CJ-18vbflXGMX9dscWfZQ&index=1&feature=plcp

    I think my boost control valve is shot- The ports both go to atmosphere. It is sealed when both ports are sealed but I am assuming that it would be vacuum to the VNT or vent the vacuum in the VNT to atmosphere when it isn't calling for the VNT to boost. If I hook it up right now the vacuum doesn't build up at the vacuum supply line with everything hooked up normally. I can put my vacuum gauge directly on the vacuum line before the check valve and it builds.
    I have been looking for troubleshooting valve and whether or not it is an on/off or modulated and the what the normally open/ normally closed functions are...
    I took it for a test drive before testing my vacuum and power is very anemic- I don't think I'm getting any boost and the VNT actuator moves freely when vacuum is applied.
  18. chittychittybangbang

    chittychittybangbang Administrator

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  19. Elbonk

    Elbonk New Member

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    Well, I found out my vacuum pump had a "wiggly nipple" and the vacuum now comes up to 23" pretty quick after a rtv & rubber cap quick fix. $330 for a new dual pump. I assume it has an o-ring or something and is stamped into place or slid outwards while disassembled from the inside.
  20. Elbonk

    Elbonk New Member

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    WOWZER!!!

    Replaced the TC boost control valve.. The valve allowed vacuum to go to atmosphere with no power applied. Once I pulled the part out it was obvious as to what goes where, Vac (one to the vacuum source and the other to the resevoir), out (to the VNT actuator) and the big hose goes to the aircleaner. I now am experiencing some BOOST!! I see why folks spend stupid amounts of $$$ on the 'Dubs.. It sure is fun to drive but dang.. Parts aren't cheap.
    I found the part at my local Carquest parts store for $79, $135'ish at the dealer and it was an OEM sourced part. That is 2 for 2 as the clutch pulley I purchased from them was by INA..

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