I purchased my 2012 Jetta in August 2011. With a matter of weeks, I started to notice a rear deck rattle and buzz that seemed to get progressively worse. The rattle could be heard when going over bumps and the buzz could be heard when playing music with prominent bass (caused by the subwoofer) â€“ I am convinced the problems were related. Anyway, I returned the car to my VW dealership four times between November 2011 and July 2012, each time providing detailed information regarding the problem. They did the VW subwoofer TSB (91I5) which simply places a layer of insulation (damper) between the deck and the metal frame â€“ useless. Other than that, the only thing the dealer did was install or re-attach a thin layer of rubber seal thatâ€™s attached to the deck (two 6â€ sections and small pieces at the corners). The rubber seal is supposed to prevent the deck from making contact with the glass, but itâ€™s so thin and the sections are so short that itâ€™s worthless. My last visit, the dealer told me they couldnâ€™t identify the problem and therefore wouldnâ€™t be able to fix it. Finally, I took matters into my own hands. I did the fix outlined below this weekend (took me 6 hours but can be done in about 3-4 hours with good instructions), and I now have a solid ride -- no rattles, no bass buzz! I am not a mechanic, so please forgive me if I called something the wrong name. The Fix: Install weather-strip on rear deck and apply Dynamat to top of subwoofer box Materials Needed: MD sponge rubber weather-strip (black, 3/8 in. X 3/4 in. X 10 feet, part number 06635, Home Depot) 12â€ by 36â€ piece of Dynamat (or comparable) sound deadener Instructions: 1. Lower the rear seats so you can crawl around the trunk. 2. Disconnect the audio cables from the subwoofer box (you will need a tiny screw driver to â€œunlockâ€ the connector). 3. Unscrew the five 10mm bolts and remove the subwoofer box. 4. Remove the plastic corner panels between the deck and the headliner by gently pulling the pieces away from the frame. 5. Now focus on the plastic panels that support the outer seat belts (along the door frame). Open the small access door and unscrew the star screw (get yourself an automotive star screw driver set from your local auto store â€“ I use these a lot for various car projects). Gently pull the top of the plastic panel away from the frame of the car â€“ that will give you enough room to remove the deck after doing 6. below. 6. Unscrew the star screws from the five plastic rivets holding the deck to the frame. Three of the rivets are easily located at the front of the deck; the other two will become visible after doing 5. above. 7. Now youâ€™ll have to remove the five plastic rivets. This can be done by gently lifting the front of the deck (preferred method, but watch out, theyâ€™ll fly!) or getting a small screw driver under the â€œlip.â€ Careful, the rivets break easily (I need to order two replacements). 8. Disconnect the brake light wire (same technique as bullet 2.). 9. Gently lift the deck from the frame, and slide the seat belts through the slits so that you can remove the deck from the vehicle. 10. Go to Home Depot and buy MD sponge rubber weather-strip (black, 3/8 in. X 3/4 in. X 10 feet, part number 06635) 11. Remove any rubber strips installed by the factory that are intended to prevent contact between the deck and the glass. 12. Apply a continuous strip of the MD material to the edge of the deck thatâ€™s closest to the glass. Leave no margin between the weather-strip and the edge of the deck. 13. Apply Dynamat (12â€ X 36â€ piece) to the top of the subwoofer box. Cut the Dynamat so that it conforms to the contour of the box and cut to size as needed. Use a seam roller (if you have one) to smooth out the Dynamat. 14. OPTIONAL: I have read posts where owners applied Dynamat to the underside of the metal frame (visible after you remove the subwoofer box) and also the underside of the deck itself. Iâ€™m sure a small strip or two on either wouldnâ€™t hurt. 15. Reverse all of the above â€œtake apartâ€ steps (1. through 9.) 16. NOTE: when you reverse step 4., you should remove the two longer metal clips (unless you want to spend an hour re-installing each corner panel). Then, remove the three smaller metal clips from the corner panels and re-attach directly to the metal body. Push the corner panels onto the clips. Easy! The 2012 VW Jetta TDI is an amazing car from a mechanical standpoint. The â€œfit and finish,â€ sadly, is cheap. If youâ€™re bold enough to do this project, you will at least be able to enjoy a quiet, solid ride. As I was putting the car back together, my 11-year-old son said â€œIt takes a smart man to take a car apart and put it back together again.â€ I chuckled and said to myself â€œSmart? No. Determined? Absolutely!â€ One other comment. Iâ€™m a bean counter. I know nothing about cars, but through my determination (and frustration), I was able to come up with a fix thatâ€™s far better than anything the dealership (or VW) came up with. I am very disappointed in my dealership for failing to correct a simple problem (I believe weather-strip alone would have done the job; the Dynamat was an extra precaution). If I can do it, why canâ€™t they? Ultimately, VW needs to improve the engineering and quality of its interiors.