1000q: How to use the VW special tool T10134 - BRM Rear main seal change

Discussion in 'Mk5 VW Jetta, Sportwagen, and Audi A3 TDI forum' started by dbandel, Aug 18, 2011.

  1. dbandel

    dbandel New Member

    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2010
    Messages:
    18
    Car:
    2006 Jetta TDI
    ***ADMIN NOTE (chittychittybangbang) - this writeup says to use the red pin on a TDI engine, the red pin is for gas engines, the black pin is for diesel engines! See this DIY article: http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/a5/rear-main-seal-vw-audi-mk5-t10134.htm for the edited (fixed version) of this thread

    This is a write-up on my recent experience changing out the rear main seal on my wife's 2006 Jetta TDI.
    ***PITFALLS*** - This job was done twice and the seal is an expensive part - $85 to $105. The first time I did not do it correctly using the T10134 tool, and the timing ring was several degrees out. This resulted in a "no start" condition. VAG-COM error codes indicated an "Improbable Engine Speed sensor signal", so be forewarned. Also you will see in the pictures that I did NOT drop the oil pan at first as some other posts say you can do it that way. This resulted in an oil leak at the bottom of the seal. Believe me, the last thing you want to see after having already yanked the transmission, flywheel and rear main seal TWICE is an oil leak coming from behind the flywheel onto your shop floor. I believe this was caused due to the extremely tight clearances between the bottom of the seal and the lip of the oil pan scraping off all the sealant as the seal was installed. Live and learn.

    OVERVIEW:

    I won't go into these related tasks as they are already well documented:


    Removing the 5 speed manual transmission


    Dual mass flywheel and clutch removal

    There is another write-up on Rear Main seal replacement but it does not go into detail on using VW Special Tool T10134. It is good reference if you can't obtain the tool, but I would suggest installing the seal without the tool only as a last resort.


    Tools needed:

    Torque Wrench (Ft/Lbs)

    24mm deep well socket

    VW tool T10134 available at Snap-On special tools program. At the time of this writing (8/18/2011) the tool was about $237 (still cheaper than paying the dealership)

    flat edge or ruler

    (3) M6x35mm bolts (ACE hardware)

    (2) M7x35mm bolts (ACE hardware)

    10mm socket, ratchet, extensions

    2.5mm hex key

    5mm long hex key

    8mm hex key


    PROCEDURE:

    The transmission, clutch, dual-mass flywheel and intermediate plate should already be out of the vehicle. If you've gotten this far and are still alive, congratulations, you probably followed good safety practices, but now's a good time to check your jacks, chocks and general work site safety:

    [​IMG]


    MAKE SURE engine cylinder #1 is at TDC and you have both the camshaft pulley pin (not shown) and Crank lock installed correctly (metalnerd crank lock shown). you DO NOT want to find out "after the fact" that you had the engine 180 degrees out!:


    [​IMG]

    Remove the oil pan using 5mm ball head hex key. You will need a long (5" or longer) T-handle hex key to get to the four bolts that are up inside the casting of the oil pan under the seal. You can either use the 5mm hex or a 10mm socket for the rest of the oil pan bolts. Remove them in an alternating pattern.

    Remove the Engine Speed Sensor using the 2.5mm ball head hex key. The screw holding the sensor to the old seal is hard to get to and at a slight angle, so the ball head hex key helps here.

    Remove the (6) sealing flange bolts with the 10mm socket

    Press off the old seal and sensor wheel together from the crankshaft using the three M6x35mm bolts. Thread the three bolts into the three holes provided in the seal. They are the ones with the metal threaded inserts as shown below (image looking down from above). Screw the bolts in using an alternating pattern of 1/2 turn each until the sensor wheel and seal flange come loose from the crankshaft:

    [​IMG]


    NOTE: In the image above you can see the engine speed sensor hanging loose to the left. Notice the angle of the hex screw relative to the plane of the seal which makes it a bit difficult to get out and back on.

    INSTALLING NEW SEAL:

    Take a look at your expensive, pretty new seal:

    [​IMG]

    Notice the black plastic sealing lip support ring in the center. DO NOT remove this ring as it serves as an assembly sleeve to keep the teflon inner seal from becoming distorted during installation. Teflon seals are highly durable to wear but deform easily. Tool #T10134 is designed to accept this sleeve during installation.

    Also notice the orange tab. DO NOT remove this until ready to do so later in these instructions. This tab keeps the position of the sensor ring relative to the seal and also to the Engine speed sensor. IF THIS MOVES EVEN SLIGHTLY THE ENGINE WILL NOT START or may start but run poorly and you will need to do this all over again (ask me how I know sometime).

    T10134 TOOL:

    The T10134 install tool has several parts visible on the top view:


    [​IMG]



    1. Tensioner spindle ( black threaded rod in center with Tension Nut on it)
    2. Tension Nut (silver 24mm nut)
    3. Assembly Bell (main body)
    4. Guide Pin for gasoline engines (black ball handle - Not Used)
    5. Guide Pin for Diesel engines (RED ball handle)
    6. Seal mounting screws (the three black knurled knobs)


    Parts visible on bottom (mounting face):

    [​IMG]

    1. Locating Pin (right above the upper black bolt in above image on silver face of body)
    2. (2) 8mm socket head hex bolts
    3. Diesel Guide Pin (larger silver pin at Seven O'clock position)
    4. Gasoline Guide Pin (Smaller silver pin at Three O'clock position - Not Used)
    5. The black part is the tensioner surface


    Mounting the Seal to Tool:

    1. If not already in this position, screw the tension nut down on the threaded tensioner as in the top view. The tensioner has two flattened sides in the threaded section. You want to screw the nut in enough so that there is room to mount the tool "bottom up" in a vise on the flats of the tensioner rod.


    2. Mount the tool in a vise:
    [​IMG]


    3. Press the Assembly Bell down on the nut fully.

    4. Lay a straight edge across the Bell and tensioner surface as Shown. The tensioner surface (black) should be on the same level as the assembly Bell. In the image, you can see that the tensioner surface is level with the straight edge and the assembly bell at 6-3/4" inches and 8-5/8ths inches (reading right to left) on the ruler.

    [​IMG]


    In this image you can see that the tensioner is below the assembly bell:

    [​IMG]


    In this image the tensioner is above the assembly bell:

    [​IMG]


    5. REMOVE the orange sensor wheel securing clip from the new seal.

    6. Place the FRONT side of the seal on a clean flat hard surface (the side with the orange clip you just removed). Press on the sealing lip support ring (the black inner plastic ring) until it is flush with the hard surface. This ensures it is in the proper position when mounted in the tool.

    7. On the rear of the seal, look next to the upper threaded hole where you put the top M6x35mm extractor bolt. There is a slight dimple mark (greyish circle in the image below) . The locating pinhole on the sensor wheel must align with the dimple mark AND with the alignment pin on the assembly bell when it's mounted, as pictured below:

    [​IMG]


    8. Mount the seal on the assembly tool with the assembly bell pin aligned with the sensor ring pinhole. Gently but firmly screw the three knurled seal mounting screws into the seal. Keep firm pressure on the seal during this step to ensure that the pin didn't inadvertently slip out of the pinhole. Make sure the seal is flat and level with the surface of the assembly bell before you move on and that the alignment pins didn't get out of position:

    [​IMG]


    MOUNTING ASSEMBLY TOOL AND SEAL TO CRANKSHAFT:

    1. Make sure the crankshaft flange and the sealing surface is COMPLETELY clean and free of grit, dirt, Dorito chips, etc. It should look something like this (below) except you are going to do it correctly without the oil pan still attached, right?

    [​IMG]


    2. Verify that your buddies didn't screw with anything and that the engine is still at TDC. Ask me why this is important sometime. werd

    3. Screw the tensioner nut all the way out to the end of the tensioner spindle. Now press on the spindle shaft so that the tensioner surface moves out of the back of the tool as far as it will go. It should look like this - notice that the tensioner surface (black part with the two bolts) is now sticking out beyond the seal lip support ring:

    [​IMG]


    3. Make sure that the tool and seal are oriented with the flat part of the seal downward where it will contact with the top of the oil pan. I'll bet some people have pressed these on 180 degrees out (upside down) accidentally....

    4. Secure the tool and seal to the crankshaft using the socket head hex bolts in the tool using the 8mm hex key. Do not tighten, you want it secure but able to move a bit.

    From below looking up, it should look like this:

    [​IMG]

    Notice the flat on the seal aligns with the oil pan (which should be removed).


    4. Install the two M7x35mm "hardware store" bolts through the bottom two outboard holes in the seal body, and into the corresponding threaded holes in the block. These serve as guide pins while you press the seal on with the tool. This is important as it keeps the tool and seal from "cocking" and potentially damaging the seal:

    [​IMG]


    5. Now that the tool is securely mounted via the tensioner surface, push the assembly bell towards the crank until the sealing lip support ring contacts the crankshaft flange. Push the RED guide pin into the bore of the crankshaft. It may take a bit of wiggling. NOW tighten the 8mm hex head bolts firmly to the crankshaft.

    6. Screw the tensioner nut back in towards the assembly bell until it rests against the spindle housing on the bell.

    7. Using the torque wrench and a 24mm deep well socket, tighten the tensioner nut to specified torque of 35Nm. Once this is done, There should still be a slight air gap between the engine block and the seal flange.

    8. Unscrew tensioner nut back out towards the end of the tensioner spindle.

    9. Screw the two M7x35mm guide bolts out of the block and remove.

    10. Unscrew the three black knurled mounting bolts out of the seal.

    11. Unbolt the two 8mm hex mounting bolts inside the Assembly tool from the crankshaft flange and remove the tool.

    12. Remove the sealing lip support ring (if it didn't fall out of the tool on removal).

    You should have something looking like this at this point (except your oil pan isn't installed, right?):


    [​IMG]


    Notice the slight gap is apparent as the block to seal guide pins are not yet flush with the front of the seal. The manual says at this point to check the gap between the sensor wheel and the crankshaft flange and ensure it is 0.5mm. If it isn't, reinstall the assembly tool and press the seal on again to specified torque. I "eyeballed" mine as I didn't have a caliper handy and it seemed fine.

    13. Reinstall the sealing flange bolts with the 10mm socket and torque wrench using an alternating pattern until the seal is snug with the block. Torque to 15Nm. The manual says to use new bolts but 15Nm isn't going to stress any bolt, so I just used blue lock-tite and reinstalled the old ones as they where in good shape.

    14. Reinstall the Engine Speed Sensor with the small hex key and torque to 5Nm.

    15. Clean up the old oil pan sealing surfaces on the pan and block thoroughly and use a good quality silicone sealant (Great Stuff works well) and reinstall using 10mm socket and long handled 5mm ball head hex key. Torque to 15Nm.

    Reinstall the intermediate plate, flywheel, clutch and tranny per instructions in the related faqs listed at the beginning of this write-up.

    I hope this helps some of you who have been contemplating replacing a leaking rear seal or damaged sensor ring using the T10134 special tool.

    -David
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 28, 2013
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  2. chittychittybangbang

    chittychittybangbang Administrator

    Joined:
    May 23, 2007
    Messages:
    22,269
    Car:
    2006 Jetta TDI
    Location:
    CT
    Excellent writeup. Although there is already a writeup on changing the seal, this adds enough detail to the procedure that it will qualify for the writeup contest. Good pictures and good detail! I will add this to the FAQ.
  3. chittychittybangbang

    chittychittybangbang Administrator

    Joined:
    May 23, 2007
    Messages:
    22,269
    Car:
    2006 Jetta TDI
    Location:
    CT
  4. chittychittybangbang

    chittychittybangbang Administrator

    Joined:
    May 23, 2007
    Messages:
    22,269
    Car:
    2006 Jetta TDI
    Location:
    CT
    Updated with a video. I made a small mistake in that the installation sleeve should stick out beyond the lip. I don't think it made any difference because the sleeve can't lock onto the crankshaft edge, it just stretches out the seal so the seal can slip over the crankshaft without getting caught. As you push the tool in, the seal ends up in the same position.

    This was performed on my demo engine which cost a lot, please use the donation button at the top if you want to support myturbodiesel! Thank you in advance!

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lo6wpKdBoUE

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