timing belt

[mxmaggio]

Having a bit of a problem with using forum and posting. I have 2006 jetta tdi and would like to attempt to change timing belt on my own but in need of on how?

[Seatman]

You usually have to wait about 10 minutess or so then it should work fine, if it doesn't then it might be a good idea to post in the sites comments and corrections section and chitty will be able to deal with it.


in the meantime

[Lomme]

Hi

Im also new in the My Turbo Diesel forum, (My first post) and checking out the guides written about changing timmingbelt on My Golf.
Here is a guide for BEW motors

http://www.myturbodiesel.com/forum/f...4-2006-a-2977/

Found an interesting webshop here in Europe selling tools for vw timmingbelt change

http://www.xxl-automotive.de/Stahlma...etierwerkzeug/

We helpfull Info here at myturbodiesel.

Br. Kasper

vw golf TDI 1.9 asz


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I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=55.641122,12.076392

[Jostal]

I also have a 2006 Jetta TDI I am chinging the timing belt on. I am new to this forum and to diesels. I have done many a timing belt on gasoline jap engines. I have taken this thing all the way down to the belt and am ready to slip it off but......... I'm just wondering why are these people are saying special tool this and special tool that? why do I need to hold the crank and cam? are they somehow sprung? when I slip the belt of will some alien force spin them wildly? why can't i just line them up and put the new belt on??? and if I was off a tooth wouldn't I throw a check engine light at idle/low rpm before any engine damage could occur?Has anyone done this without the special tools? Thanks

[chittychittybangbang]

Unlike Japanese engines, the belt has no index marks. Once you check timing with VCDS you'll see how important a tiny change in timing is to fuel economy, starting, and idle. Even if it's not off a tooth you'll get rough idle if not right. Read this for more http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/m...t-Idle-TDI.htm

Once you tension the belt the cam-crank will move. The purpose of the tools is to keep that relationship correct.

I've heard of people off a tooth and they only complain it won't start, no codes. Usually it throws camshaft sensor error.

[Jostal]

well I don't have access to a VCDS for the same reason I don't have the special tools IT's to expensive, the local shop wants 80$ to hook it up.that's just not an option for me. I finished the timing belt job car starts, idles, and drives just fine I obviously can't tell about gas mileage yet but I'll see in a week or so. I think it's more then possible to do this job without special tools if you just take your time. but still no engine damage will happen if you have the timing even close, worst case you just have to try again and tweak it a little.

[chittychittybangbang]

FYI, I hope for your sake that you didn't get the parts from NC for cheap. There's a seller there who sells total junk which will cost you in the long run through failed components. I also rent the tools, see the page linked through the TB writeup. Just letting people know.

There are also guys out there who will help out local fellow VWers for free or for lunch

[Ol'Rattler]

For a BRM, you will need a letter "A" drill bit for the cam and a lock tool for the crank (about $30). These engines are not gassers and are very easy to get the timing wrong, because of the slotted holes in the camshaft sprocket. Being even 1 tooth off on the belt will cause valve to piston contact requiring head removal to fix the damage.

Using the 2 lock tools and the correct procedure you can get so close to spot on that checking the crank to cam timing with VCDS is really unnecessary because the crank to cam timing will be well within specs.

[Jostal]

Well I have the belt done, idle is smooth and it fires right up runs like a champ. Just remember there is always more then one way to do something. If you plan on the belt moving with the tension then you just set it slightly forward. I got the parts from BLAU. Not a bad kit but cam/crank seals were not needed. I do understand you rent the tools but I don't have a fleet of cars to drive so I need this for work, no time to wait around for tools. I came here looking for help but all this forum provides is a bunch of negative narrow minded people saying " NO can't do it like that" that doesn't help at all, so I just did it my own way. This job can be done without special tools and just a calibrated eyeball. I wouldn't even bother locking the cam next time it is pretty hard to turn at TDC if you have the cam gear bolts loose and I was able to lock the crank toothed gear with a small piece of metal and some vice grips. I wouldn't even bother with these if I did it again because you don't really need them.

[QUOTE]" Being even 1 tooth off on the belt will cause valve to piston contact requiring head removal to fix the damage".OL Rattler have you actually done this?? I don't think the clearance is that tight, even on this forum people said it was a tooth or two off and it just wouldn't start and didn't bang valves.

[chittychittybangbang]

I don't work on other people's cars so I have made no money, as do most of us. I rent the tools as a convenience for those who don't want to buy them. Compared to the amount of time that goes into this website, money made from a few ads is insignificant.

If you find someone local with VCDS I suggest checking the cam timing because many people fixed a rough idle with a tiny twist of its position. You could have gotten lucky and have more skill than someone else, not everyone will.