Timing belt article BRM engine up

[chittychittybangbang]

Articles include links to parts vendors so you can quickly compare pricing and kit components and differences between what the service manual shows and what may be on your car. There is also a bolt access hole that isn't mentioned in the service manual. Water pump change is in a separate article to free up some space.

Included in part 2 is a youtube video showing tensioner action.

Part 1- removal : http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/a...lacement-1.htm

Part 2- installation:
http://www.myturbodiesel.com/forum/f...allation-3006/

Water pump change:
http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/a...-2005-2006.htm

The BEW engine is similar, if you have a BEW engine, read this writeup and the ALH writeup and you'll be able to figure it out.

[Stefan2006]

Thanks, I was thinking about doing it myself.

[chittychittybangbang]

And of course thanks to the brave volunteer who supplied the car! I have made some edits and added pics to clarify.

[Bluemojo]

So are you saying in the writeup that the manual has errors like the hose?

[chittychittybangbang]

Not sure. What I do know is that the car I worked on was different from what the Bentley had. And the Bentley also left out some really helpful tips like the access hole for the motor mount bolt.

[Bluemojo]

gotcha, I read the same thing elsewhere

[MAXRPM]

Chitty how hard was it compared to the ALH TB? I have changed about 10 TB on the ALH, but I have never changed one on a BRM

[chittychittybangbang]

Much easier on the A5 body because of more room and the motor mount access hole.

The ALH timing belt has more tricky areas than most simple engines, which is why I think it gets screwed up a lot. For example, the position of the injection pump pin could be misplaced, adjusting the injection pump sprocket, making sure the camshaft sprocket is tight, etc. And the valve cover bolts often stripped or were hard to access which adds significant time. The horizontal motor mount bolts are hard to access.

The BRM timing belt uses an idiot proof crankshaft lock and the horizontal motor mount bolt has an access hole pictured in the writeup. The motor mount is also attached at different points which makes removal much easier. No need to remove the valve cover. This all speeds things up considerably. I take my time, clean the misc parts as they are removed, and take multiple pictures each step to make sure the pictures are focused and usable. If I had to do it again, I think 4 hours is realistic. I'm guessing that a guru with a car lift and power tools could do it in 2 hours.

And the timing belt itself is simpler. As long as the tools are used (and the pin goes all the way in, not halfway in) it's harder to mess up, which is good news for those who take the cars to the dealer, lol. The only tricky thing is getting the camshaft sprocket in the right spot. Like the ALH injection pump sprocket, the BRM camshaft sprocket uses ovaled holes so that it can be adjusted without moving the camshaft. If the belt is put on the way I did it, the holes can be put in the middle with ease. If the belt is put on ending with the water pump as the service manual suggests, be prepared for a fight. The oilhammer way works but I've found that removing the sprocket completely like the ALH method, kills two birds with one stone: getting the belt on with ease and positioning the sprocket within the ovaled holes.

[dan0]

Chittybb-
Thanks for those great pics! I sent you a pm w/ a few Q's...
I should have posted themn right here!
This I would imagine is a 2K+ job @ a stealership!

dan

[chittychittybangbang]

re:

Originally Posted by dan0

Hi- I just registered on the site. It looks alot like the tdi forum, !
Anyway, I have a question or three on the timing belt change for my 06 Jetta TDI.

Why do we need to crank the camshaft backward upon installation, and why are there slotted holes in the cam gear?
Where does the "rig pin" go into in the cam gear? Where does it seat?
I mean, if the cam gear clamp-dn bolts and holes are slotted, what (good) does the cam gear pin hold, then? Confuzed.

No, I do not have a manual -yet.
I'm gearing up tio do this job early...I have 56K miles

I believe that the camshaft being tightened backward is to take up any slack on the right side (as you're looking at it) and put it on the side of the tensioner so that the tensioner can properly tighten the belt.

The slotted holes are to let the sprocket rotate within the range of the holes. If you watch the videos this will be more clear - the sprockets rotate a little during tensioning.

The pin through the camshaft sprocket goes into a hole. There are pics on the writeup that detail it. here they are again.

This one has the sprocket removed for illustration. As you can see, the pin holds the hub underneath the sprocket steady. The hub is bolted to the camshaft. This holds the camshaft steady. The ovaled holes on the camshaft sprocket let it rotate a little without moving the camshaft, which must stay at TDC.


If you're only at 56k, there is no rush. The factory recommendation on the timing belt is 100k miles. You can check it at 70-80k for obvious wear. If you want to change it early, 85-90k miles is early enough.