Looking at DIY camshaft replacement

[grantstory]

I'm here because air was going the wrong way out of my intake... not good (thump-thump-thump noise).

It's an '06 TDI with about 180K miles.

I removed my valve cover tonight and found at least two worn lobe edges, some cupping on the lifters, and a gauge out of another lobe. We've had some power loss, not terribly noticeable though.

So, I'm particularly interested in the camshaft replacement procedures at the moment... thanks in advance for all your collective wisdom!

[chittychittybangbang]

Welcome, at least it's not worn through the lifter faces!

[troubleclef5]

I found this site while looking for camshaft replacement advice as well. Thanks for all the DIY advice you have on here, this looks like the start of a beautiful friendship.

[TwinCamMan]

Does it matter much if it has worn through the lifter faces? My uncle dropped his car up to me and it had worn a hole 6.5mm x 3.5mm in it. I know it's not good for the bits of metal flying around the engine but there is more worn off the cam as it was worn down to 58.2mm on the lobe nearest the camshaft. The other lobes are measuring nearly 62mm.

I replace the camshaft, bearings and lifters on the car along with timing belt and it's failing to start for me now. There is diesel getting to it. The only thing to note is that the timing was heavily retarded (about one tooth) on the old timing belt, and when the new belt was put on (set up with the timing tools) with the timing window in its optimum position it is one tooth off from the old belt, which should be right. I turned the engine over about 10 times by hand and there was no unusual resistance (ie. pistons touching valves)

Previously when I've changed timing belts on VW/Audi tdi's I've only ever adjusted the timing with the VCDS in place. Is there ever a case that the timing would need to be tweaked to get it to start?

[chittychittybangbang]

Check if your engine uses t10050 or t10100, I don't know which your engine would use. Also triple check timing belt and cam position. Check out idle adjustment/camshaft timing article too for some more timing tips.

[TwinCamMan]

Thanks chittychittybangbang, the engine is a 1.9 tdi AVF engine which uses the t10050 tool. Before I removed the old belt, I checked that the crank locking tool and the camshaft locking pin fitted as they should do and they fitted fine. With everything locked in place I took off the belt and later removed and replaced the camshaft. On reassembly of the camshaft assembly I ensured that the the crank locking tool had not been disturbed and that the camshaft locking pin was fitting as before.

I manually turned the engine over ten times, each time checking that the crank locking tool and the camshaft locking pin fitted as they should do. Each time it was perfect, so I'm happy there.

I've done about 7 timing belt changes on this type of VW/Audi engines and am stumped as this it the first time it has failed to start.

[chittychittybangbang]

did you remove fuel lines? If so they're probably dry, check out fuel filter change article for priming.

[TwinCamMan]

Thanks again chittychittybangbang, I went back over everything again last night and everything is absolutely perfect. Cam locking pin, crankshaft locking tool, tensioner sitting right and even checked that the "4Z" arrow on the rear of the timing belt cover was pointing between the two lugs for the camshaft position sensor. I compared it to the photos that I was taking along the way (something I always do - in case something like this happened!). All perfect.

I replaced the diesel filter at the same time that I was bleeding the system due to the tandem pump being unbolted from the rear of the engine. After a good steady flow with no bubbles was achieved from the exit of the diesel filter the pipe was reconnected and primed a few more times.

Although the car wouldn't start I decided to put the VCDS on the car and scan it anyway, it threw up 4 engine codes. These weren't on the car beforehand as I scanned the car a week ago and they weren't there. Is there a connector block or section of wiring that all these have in common? The cam position sensor was only touched to wipe the light coat of dust off it.

The fault codes that came up are below.

Address 01: Engine Labels: 038-906-019-AVF.lbl
Part No: 038 906 019 JT
Component: 1,9l R4 EDC 0000SG 1572
Coding: 00003
Shop #: WSC 63351
VCID: 72E05F713EB4009
WAUZZZ8E83A299265 AUZ6Z0B0393531

4 Faults Found:
17564 - Manifold Pressure Sensor (G71)
P1156 - 35-10 - Open/Short to Ground - Intermittent
17569 - Manifold Temp Sensor (G72)
P1161 - 35-00 - Open or Short to Plus
18080 - Coolant Fan Control 1
P1672 - 35-10 - Open or Short to Ground - Intermittent
19464 - Camshaft Position Sensor (G40)
P3008 - 00-00 - Signal Out of Range

[chittychittybangbang]

first 3 is wiring or sensor problems.

last is cam is out of position. since you said timing is OK must be wiring. I know that sensor passes by the glow plugs.

[TwinCamMan]

Thanks again, after double checking every connector block that I was near including inspecting the wiring that runs from the cam sensor back to the bulkhead still got no joy.

I read up here that if you disconnect the cam position sensor it automatically by passes it and just runs at it's optimum but still no joy. I'm going to try scanning the car before and after disconnecting the cam sensor but if I get no joy there I'm going to be stumped.