Vaccuum line sizes and length?

[Hoff6282]

The lack of the Anti-Shudder valve won't prevent you driving, because it is normally open I believe. The vacuum line attached to it closes the block off plate when you turn the ignition off to help make shutdown smoother, but a lot of people eliminate their ASV entirely when they remove the EGR for an EGR delete or race pipe alternative, so it's obviously not essential. I'm contemplating scrapping my EGR completely here pretty soon. Depending on where you live though, you may have certain emissions standards that would require it to be left on. I hear you though as far as breaking the nipples; I snapped one on my N75 Interested to hear how everything goes-- Good luck!

[CanuckinUK]

Hi Hoff, thanks for your reply.

Well, I spent the better part of the morning driving miles to collect a second hand vac resorvoir from a vw scrapper and then hunting down vacuum hose as the three automotive stores I went to don't stock it any more. In the end, some 6 mm was sourced from a hose supplier on an industrial estate. He didnt have 5 mm. But what difference will a mm make? Its not like we're talking engine internals?

Well it made plenty of difference in the sense that a couple of the connections were too sloppy and just not fit for purpose. So, will just order some more online. The vac resorvoir went on a treat and crossing my toes while connecting the new hose to the fragile nipple did the trick.

Took it for a nice long drive afterwards and there is very little smoke coming from the exhaust now but the performance is the same. Accelerates smooth and fast down hill, can get up to 70 mph on flat stretch of motorway but going up any sort of moderate incline she just falls flat on her butt!

So, tomorrow morning am going to remove the bumper and clean/replace the MAP sensor to see if that might be the culprit. Failing that will look at replacing the n75 valve and after that cross more body parts. Lol

[CanuckinUK]

Am thinking the injectors may be the offending article so am considering a purge to clean them. Can anyone recommend a suitable product and have you noticed any change to performance after doing it yourself?

Regards, Phil

[Seatman]

Cleaned the turbo yet?

[CanuckinUK]

Hi Seatman,
yes I have squirted oven cleaner into the turbo but it doesnt seem to have made much difference. It did pull well in 3rd after a long drive but thats about it. Have taken the front bumper off to replace the MAP sensor but unlike the Youtube video where the sensor is in plain view mine is tucked away out of sight near to the windscreen washer bottle! So have taken the intercooler completely off to get access to the map sensor holding screws only to find they wont budge! Aarggh! They must be loc-tited in at the factory. So will take it to a garage tomorrow for screws to be extracted.

When I removed the intercooler there was a small pool of oil in it. Is this normal or is something seriously screwed up?

Regards, Phil

[CanuckinUK]

Hi guys,
Have finally solved the mystery. Turns out the overboost was caused by a dodgy N75 valve which I have replaced from my local breakers yard for £10! Wish I had started with the simple stuff first! Lol Although she has now had a healthy dose of tlc including some oven cleaner in the turbo. Thanks to everyone for viewing and helping and a big thank you to the guy who created the thread suggesting swapping the N75 and EGR valves to diagnose it. Cheers, Phil

[MKK]

Originally Posted by CanuckinUK

Hi Hoff, thanks for your reply.

Well, I spent the better part of the morning driving miles to collect a second hand vac resorvoir from a vw scrapper and then hunting down vacuum hose as the three automotive stores I went to don't stock it any more. In the end, some 6 mm was sourced from a hose supplier on an industrial estate. He didnt have 5 mm. But what difference will a mm make? Its not like we're talking engine internals?

Well it made plenty of difference in the sense that a couple of the connections were too sloppy and just not fit for purpose. So, will just order some more online. The vac resorvoir went on a treat and crossing my toes while connecting the new hose to the fragile nipple did the trick.

Took it for a nice long drive afterwards and there is very little smoke coming from the exhaust now but the performance is the same. Accelerates smooth and fast down hill, can get up to 70 mph on flat stretch of motorway but going up any sort of moderate incline she just falls flat on her butt!

So, tomorrow morning am going to remove the bumper and clean/replace the MAP sensor to see if that might be the culprit. Failing that will look at replacing the n75 valve and after that cross more body parts. Lol

I suspect that I have a Vacuum Reservoir Ball leaking as had a limp mode problems myself on my Passat. In my case the turbo boost pressure was not reaching the required level so there must have been a leakage somewhere and upon blocking the hose leading to Vacuum Reservoir Ball we were able to get the boost pressure required and turbo started to kick in properly as the stats on diagnostic tool suggested. At the moment we suspect the Vacuum Reservoir Ball is the culprit and would probably need replacing. So as you had replaced yours

Do we have to take the Air conditioning pipes off to get the Vacuum Reservoir Ball taken off? On our first attempt yesterday it won't come off as there isn't just enough space for it to come off.


Secondly can we not get a new one as you had in your case sourced one from the VW Scrapper or the new one really dearer.

I am from Burnley so it will be helpful to know about the VW scrappers in the area. I have searched online for the Vacuum Reservoir Ball but to no avail.

Will appreciate your help.

Thanks