Help with my 00 TDI

[donnyinmarie]

Help me please, I am desperate!!!! I dont want to spend a fortune on my car when we have no idea what is going on! ONE year ago my car wouldnt start for a week, the mechanic that it got transfered to got in and it started right up! So they couldnt run any tests because it started... it did it one more time during the summer of 2006, i stopped at the bank and ran out to my car and it wouldnt start. After a few mins it started. My check engine light had been on for a long time but it was for my glow plug harness and relay and turbo. So... Finally got my car fixed in March they replaced the harness and relay and my exhaust broke so they refabed that... in June my car started with it again not starting... it probably did it atleast 6 times, i'd run into a store and it wouldnt start... i turn the key and it cranks with power but something isnt clicking... I replaced my fuel filter and it didnt happen for almost a month. I just got a recall notice from the local VW dealer that the previous owner bought my car saying my EGR has a recall.... soo.... As of 7pm last night my car would not start for 2hours! I had to get a ride home and it's going to get picked up today by AAA. Any suggestions or similar problems?

[diesel guy]

First, check if the recall has been done.

Second, you say that the fuel filter has been changed, so that shouldn't be a problem. The car is cranking so that's a good sign.

Possibilities: the anti-shudder valve is stuck closed or the injection pump isn't giving fuel. This picture is the anti-shudder valve - it's similar to a throttle - if it's stuck closed it will result in a no-start. See the lever in the picture? You can move it back and forth with your hand. It should be spring loaded and return to the open position. If the intake manifold is clogged, the carbon buildup could be causing it to stick closed.

another possibility is that there is a short in the electrical system and the solenoid that shuts off the fuel is cutting off the fuel.




the general location is by the red #1. halfway between #2 and #4 is a wire and solenoid. That is the fuel shut off. Tap it with a hammer (not on the wire, on the body) and see if that makes a difference. Also check for air bubbles in the fuel lines, you'll be able to see them.

[donnyinmarie]

thank you so much, i'm going to talk it over w/ all my people, it started this am, but im afraid that it's going to happen again some time soon.

[jon applespeed]

your car also has something called an immobilizer, but it won't affect the cranking and starting - with a immobilizer, it will still start but would shut off after a few seconds

[donnyinmarie]

they think that there's a failure in my ECU... any idea where those run in prices?

[chittychittybangbang]

ECUs rarely fail...they are very very expensive, so expensive that I would just buy one used from an auto recycler (junkyard)

PS, if you are having instrument panel problems, check for coolant in the wiring harness. Take a look at this page for more details.
http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q_h..._migration.htm


a full list of "how tos"

[miker]

If it's cranking, you can rule out the starting circuit, timing belt, etc.

You just need air, fuel, and compression.

You know you have compresssion, you just need to figure out if you have air - the only thing which could stop air is the anti-shudder valve - make sure it's open as directed in the instructions above and you should be golden. Even if the intake manifold was clogged with carbon, the engine should still sputter.

Fuel is more tricky - I doubt the fuel pressure is low, something is not delivering fuel.

[donnyinmarie]

so... they were just guessing that last night, i stopped in to talk to them after my car started, then it wouldnt start again so they pushed it into the garage... he hooked it up to the computers and it started... but the ecu wasnt responding and my car has been acting funny, i cant open or close my windows w/ my keys anymore and my alarm will go off randomly.... so hopefully it continues to act up for them today. cant wait for the labor bill of this one.

[chittychittybangbang]

okay, that also helps - if you are having these electrical problems then it's probably not the anti-shudder valve. What I think your problem could be:

1. Faulty or shorted ignition switch -
2. Possible relay 109 bad - pic below
3. coolant migration - I posted a link above with how to check for coolant migration, causes random electrical problems

if your relay 109 is black, it is the old one and could be causing this
if your relay 109 is grey, it is the new one and is okay

[donnyinmarie]

if the car cranks over that wouldnt be the ignition would it? i think the humidity may be a problem, i live in wisconsin... hah