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#1
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2. I am also dropping into limp mode. All mentioned above is done or being done, but any other thoughts? 3. Also, my CCV breather hose is leaking oil at the two bolts. I have not pulled it yet, but I am hesitant until I get a question answered. If I pull it and find it's just the o-ring, can I replace it with any o-ring or does it need to high temp green viton or something like I put on my Int. Shaft seal. I don't want to pull it and find it's just an o-ring and have to buy the entire breather line if I can just replace the o-ring. 4. And if I pull the CCV breather hose line, will I leak oil, do I need to drain and do an oil change at the same time? Any and all help is greatly appreciated. Thx, Dave |
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#2
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Sorry I guess I got carried away. Four questions....
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#3
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1. Bad glow plug or harness. A car of your age/mileage is expected to have some wear/tear on the wiring. Also check under the airbox and battery and wire harness clip above starter for chafing wiring, these are most common spots. Why replace ECU? See the FAQ, first article, bad ecu is a very common problem that can be fixed with 5 cent piece of hose. The GP code can't be caused by leaking compression because there are no sensors on #1 cylinder that could detect this. Other engine sensors definitely won't throw a glow plug code. As you already know, if there are bubbles it means you're leaking.
Check article on GP replacement, make sure to use PB Blaster to soak the threads before removal. Torque is very light but they are probably seized. 2. See FAQ article on limp mode and see what you haven't done. 3. Obviously viton is better, the oil will have some diesel in it and it's best to have something that will last. Also, the breather line is probably brittle, they crack and that could be where it's leaking from, search here for the part number. 4. No.... as long as the engine is off! (and you're not parked facing downhill in the rockies)
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#4
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Thanks...
1. I did the ECU hose. Bubbles puts me at a fork in the road, do I tighten and see if it eliminates leak or pull the GP's and see condition. I guess no harm in 2nd option. Tighten could cause it to break, which I don't want to go down that path. 2. Yes, I'm following FAQ. i.e. next step in intake/EGR. 3. Probably best to replace found part off your supplier for $25. Might as well. 4. thx, just double checking. Better to ask now than do it and have a garage full of oil. Which I just cleaned up a fuel and oil (that came off during the fuel leak and I couldn't figure why I was leaking oil) I thought I had screwed up my timing belt replacement...I was totally panicked. Then I sat back and thought about it and determined the oil was from the diesel removing the old oil from my engine. Then I found the diesel leak on the dumb vacuum hoses I put on not realizing they were injector fuel lines. Learn the hard way. B/L I don't want any more cleanups in my garage, or better my wife doesn't The only place I could find in Denver that had diesel fuel line was Mercedes dealer, and he said I have never sold any ever. Had to dust off the package in his parts closet. Works great, no leaks and it's fabric covered fuel line, looks good too.
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