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#1
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-1] It's just ME....doubt it. -2] Very little flywheel effect. -3] Computer / fuel mapping. If the map was set-up correctly, once the motor had some load applied, it would fuel it slightly to assist the clutch engagement. The Cummins in my Dodge would sense this and you could climb a hill with your foot off the pedal. As soon as you crest the hill, you could feel it throttle back and decelerate. I know we are talking different animals, but this set-up is almost DANGEROUS. I have about 7500 miles on it now, and I hope it gets better once it's broken in further. This ONE issue if it doesn't get better could cause me to get rid of it......my VW connection says he has the same issue stalling as I do, and he is the Shop Foreman! He also drives a stick everyday. Now I'm sure if I "abuse" the clutch and use a little more throttle I won't have the problem, but I question how the lifespan of the clutch would be. I tend to let the clutch start to grab, then apply throttle. Love the car otherwise.
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Founded N.E.O.D.A. {New England Outboard Drag Race Association} 1997 Certified Mercury / Merc Racing / Stern drive Serv Mgr. Lots of 100+MPH outboard drag boats Motorcycles RC cars Now.....VW diesels. Family first!! Last edited by Shortshaft; 07-28-2012 at 08:29 AM. |
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#2
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Sorry I don't have a problem with stalling with my Golf.
![]() I see you have Motorcycles in your signature have you read Motorcycle Technical Data?
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Keith ![]() 2010 Golf GTD (170) CBBB, 5 Door, Shadow Blue, Flat Tyre Indicator, Service Plan, Basic Protection Pack + VCDS. |
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#3
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IMHO, it's the DMF and engine tuning: http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/c...AQ-VW-Audi.htm
SMF retrofits feel very different. Some DMF also have better clutch engagement than others. DMF in mk4 weren't as easy to stall, I've noticed DMF in mk5 and newer are easier to stall. But you'll get used to it, so it's you
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#4
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I'd try to adjust to the clutch on a flat surface by releasing it to a point of engagement a few times w/out using any gas. The vehicle will start moving, and similar to your Cummins, it has electronic gas pedal, so it will move with your foot off the gas pedal. It will maintain the RPMs not allowing them to drop to a point of stalling, unless you interfere.
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#5
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I bought a Ross Tech dongle so I could adjust a few settings on my 2012 Golf TDI Comfortline. After I shut off the hill-hold assist, it really helped cut down the stalling. The other thing to watch for is the A/C being on. It's another load on the engine that makes this problem worse. In another thread, somebody mentioned that the engine shuts down the fuel when the RPM hit 700rpm. That's very little margin for error when your modulating the throttle at take off.
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#6
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My 2010 Golf TDI 6M is more sensitive than other cars I've driven in terms of starting out (letting the clutch out from a stop). I've got about 8,000 miles on mine now, and after about 5,000 miles it was not as sensitive. It will break in plus you'll get used to the "feel" of it. The first couple of times I drove it I stalled it, and I've always been very adept with a manual. It'll get better with some break in and time with the stick. I'm teaching my kids to drive a manual, and my first one has had alot of trouble with releasing the clutch and getting started smoothly, so it's not the best choice for someone new to a manual.
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Two Door, Tornado Red, Sunroof, Dynaudio Sound, 6 Speed Manual |
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#7
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From a standing start with the AC on is the only time when stalling my manual TDI is ever an issue. I just give the car a few hundred more RPM at launch and the problem is solved.
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#8
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Quote:
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#9
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For me, I think the reason for stalling out is because there is very little variance between engaged/disengaged. I'am to use to manual cable clutch from driving those over 25 years. It is all related to driving styles.
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#10
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Funny I test drove a JSW with manual yesterday. It drove wonderfully but I did stall it once in first gear. I attributed it to me not knowing the car.
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