Jetta clutch

[GTA_doum]

Hello,

After many months of trying to find time to replace the clutch disc on my '00 Jetta TDI, I'm finally done !
So I followed the steps carefully from the book and from a post here, car is running fine, clutch friction point is high, but is good !

Of course, there is one problem, for which I'm not sure what causes it and if there is an easy way to fix it... The clutch disc is getting dragged by the motor even if the pedal is completely pressed to the floor ! Which makes it very hard to shift in first gear, and almost impossible to shift it out of reverse ! Shifting to other gears while driving is also a challenge, especially when coming to a stop, because I'm trying to get it in first gear before it completely stops, so that I will not have to fight with the lever...

I tried to make the new disc clutch slip some, so it could use up a bit, thinking that maybe it needs to brake in, but to no vail...

My original problem was a burnt disc cluch. When I removed the disc from the cluch, it was so black... My fault, the brakes were stuck and I tried to get the car going anyway...

Is the pressure plate in fault ? I taught not since it doesn't slip at all... Definitely hope not, not so easy to find time to remove the transmission from my Jetta...

[chittychittybangbang]

Which replacement parts did you use?

There is no clutch pedal height adjustment so if there is a problem the most common problem is air in the clutch slave cylinder. There should be no slipping.

[xeno555]

My first guess would be what Chitty said...A few other things (no particular order):

Flipped disk.
Wrong thinkness of clutch disk.
Bad master and or slave.
Not using new bolts on pressure plate / not torque correctly.
Wrong pressure plate.
Wrong TO bearing.
Contaminated fluid.
Low fluid.


That all I can think of in a couple minutes...

[Ol'Rattler]

Originally Posted by GTA_doum

My original problem was a burnt disc cluch. When I removed the disc from the cluch, it was so black... My fault, the brakes were stuck and I tried to get the car going anyway...

Is the pressure plate in fault ? I taught not since it doesn't slip at all... Definitely hope not, not so easy to find time to remove the transmission from my Jetta...

So if you burnt the friction disk to the point the disk turned black? There is a real good chance you got the PP so hot that it warped and doesn't release completely with the new friction disk.

When you replace the clutch, that usually includes changing the PP, friction disk, throw out bearing, turning the flywheel and inspecting the pivot and release arm for wear or damage and replacing those if they appear questionable. Also, you have to make sure the hydraulic parts of the system work properly after bleeding and don't leak.

If you take short cuts, the clutch will not last long and may not even work correctly.

[GTA_doum]

Hello,

The disc is a Sachs disc from RockAuto. Hydraulic has been flushed properly, and there is no leak...

Visually, the pressure plate, flywheel and bearing looked ok.
All legs of the pressure plate were aligned, but I do not remember about the friction space, I taught that anyway it would get sanded by the friction.
I sanded the flywheel surface before putting back the clutch on it.
Bearing and arm were fine, and I cleaned and greased them appropriately!

I did not replace the pressure plate, to save money, and because it seemed fine! I took my time to do a good job...

For the bolts, since it was not written in the VW book to replace them, I only replaced the ones that were damaged while unscrewing them (hex heads), and the dealer had only two in stock, gees... They have been all torque to specification.

[chittychittybangbang]

Was the PP also a sachs? Can't mix-match them since the PP and clutch disks are made to a certain relationship.

[GTA_doum]

Originally Posted by chittychittybangbang

Was the PP also a sachs? Can't mix-match them since the PP and clutch disks are made to a certain relationship.

It was the original clutch, for which I understand it was a Sachs. The flywheel is a dual mass one, and the disc was without the spring, which is the one for DMF.

[Ol'Rattler]

Al I can say is WOW......

If you want to make a million KM's, you may want to get an appliance type car, like a Toyota Corolla.

Re-read my post. For longevity, there are specific things you have to understand and address or you will have problems.

If you want your clutch to last, you don't mix and match new and used parts. Like Chitty said, you may well have a LUK clutch with a replaced Sachs friction disk. did you see Sachs stamped on the OEM clutch?

With this kind of stuff, the Devil really is in the details but hey, it's just my 2 Cents, and seriously, I'm only trying to help.

[GTA_doum]

Originally Posted by Ol'Rattler

Al I can say is WOW......

If you want to make a million KM's, you may want to get an appliance type car, like a Toyota Corolla.

Re-read my post. For longevity, there are specific things you have to understand and address or you will have problems.

If you want your clutch to last, you don't mix and match new and used parts. Like Chitty said, you may well have a LUK clutch with a replaced Sachs friction disk. did you see Sachs stamped on the OEM clutch?

With this kind of stuff, the Devil really is in the details but hey, it's just my 2 Cents, and seriously, I'm only trying to help.

Hi,
I agree, but since I'm a regular guy with a regular income, I'm trying my best to spend what I can... When I looked first, a new clutch was so expensive... But now I know RockAuto, and it's more affordable. If I have to replace the PP, I'll do it this summer, I should have few free hundreds of bucks...

For the mileage, I'm convinced I'll get there, eventually... It has only 148 000km so far, it has been stored because of the transmission... But I started using it every day now, I missed the heated seats

[Ol'Rattler]

Best thing to do would be to park it until you can afford parts. Driving it in it's current condition will probably destroy the syncros.