Starter removal and diagnostics, 1996-2003 VW TDI
Difficulty: 2/5
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Introduction

The starting system is fairly simple.  There are only a few things that could result in a no start.  This article will describe starter troubleshooting and then starter removal.

The starter module consists of the starter motor and a solenoid.  When the solenoid gets the signal to run the starter, it pushes out the starter gear and gives the motor 12V and turns the starter motor.  If you hear a metal on metal grinding noise, the starter is sticking and grinding against the flywheel starter ring when it should be retracted.  This is caused by either excessive dirt build-up on the starter shaft or a bad bearing inside the starter that lets it retract.  

Always disconnect both positive and negative battery terminals and make sure that there are no flammable fumes or sources of ignition nearby!  Follow all precautions listed in the  factory service manual.  Take care to not touch the battery terminals together or let any metal object such as a wrench or necklace touch them together!

Parts (click links to compare current prices)

16mm (or 17mm) deep socket- for the motor mount bolts
13mm deep socket - positive cable and plastic cable bracket holder (mk3 cars)
10mm socket - to remove battery terminals
various extensions
(optional) battery terminal cleaner brush, shown belw

Note - if the part number shows the "x" suffix, it indicates a rebulit unit and may require a core charge.  Brand new starters are very expensive, click the links to compare prices.

Starter VW# 02A-911-023-R (Bosch) or 02A-911-023-D (new VW) 02A-911-023-DX (rebuilt VW) (manual transmission all 1996-2005 TDI, starter and solenoid rated for 2.0kW or 2.68hp) 
Starter VW #020-911-024-A (automatic transmission all 1996-2004, starter and solenoid rated for 1.8 kw)
New or rebuilt units typically include both a starter and the solenoid, usually about $160 not including core charge

Solenoid only - available through the dealership for about $95, available from most alternator or starter shops for about $60.

Procedure

Troubleshooting

If the starter does not engage a second time after releasing the ignition key from "start", this is normal.  You have to turn the key all the way to "off" before it will go to "start" again.  

If you have an automatic transmission, the car will prevent starting if the gear selector is not in Park or Neutral.  

First determine if the problem is related to a low battery.  You should normally still hear the solenoid click at the starter and detect other symptoms of a low battery.  Test for at least 12V at the battery with a multimeter when the engine is off, about 14V when the engine is running.  If the engine is cranking but not starting, it is not a starter problem, it is probably an air or fuel problem, or a sensor problem causing the no-start.

It could also be a faulty ignition switch.  Some jetta/passat mk3 cars had a recall on this.  If you have occasional problems starting but can start the car by wiggling the key in the ignition switch, in/out, left/right,  the problem is probably in the ignition switch (this will only work a few times until the switch completely fails).  You can test this by turning and holding the key to start.  You should see at least 8V at the starter plug (terminal 50, pictured above).  The problem is made worse by hanging weight off the ignition switch like other keys, etc. 

A bad or loose connection to the starter can also cause starting problems.  Make sure that the electrical connections to the starter are clean and corrosion free.  There is a braided heavy gauge wire going from the solenoid to the starter, this can become damaged and cause a poor connection.

Models after 2000 have an immobilizer but it will still let you start the engine without a problem, but will shut engine off after 2 seconds if there is an immobilizer problem.  Another clue is a blinking immobilizer light on the dashboard, but the bulb could be burnt out.  Mk5 cars also use a beeping sound to note that there is a problem with the immobilizer. Click here to see 1000q: immobilizer troubleshooting FAQ.  So if the engine does start but shuts down, there is nothing wrong with the starter.  There could be something wrong with the ignition key since there is an immobilizer antenna in it, see the immobilizer FAQ for more details.

The alarm system can also be faulty and prevent the ignition signal from reaching the starter solenoid.

If you have a manual transmission, the clutch safety switch or wiring could be faulty, it can also prevent starting (The 1996-1997 passat oddly has a clutch safety switch installed under the clutch pedal but it is not connected to any sort of clutch pedal starter interlock, it is only connected to the cruise control system).  There is also a relay on the fuse-relay panel under the dashboard.

Only do this next test if you are comfortable working on the car's electrical systems!  You can put 12V to the starter wiring directly to bypass the solenoid to test the starter while it's still on the car.  Remove the positive and negative plugs on the starter and apply 12V to the wiring.  If the starter spins, then the problem is in the wiring, controls, or the solenoid.  If the starter does not spin, then the problem is in the solenoid or wiring.

Once you remove the starter from the car, you can also do the same test to determine if you only need to replace the solenoid.

Removal

Make sure that there are no sources of ignition including flammable vapors or liquids nearby!  When you remove the battery terminals there may be a spark and it could ignite any exposed fuels.  Always remove the negative terminal first and put it back last!

Raise the car safely as specified in the factory service manual and remove the under engine panels.  You need to do this because the lower starter bolt cannot be reached from the top.  

Disconnect both the positive and negative battery terminals and make sure that they are not touching each other. (2x 10mm nuts).  I suggest wrapping them with gloves or electrical tape so that they cannot touch the battery terminals.  This would be a good time to clean the terminals wires and battery terminals with the battery cleaner brush.

(Optional) remove the battery - it may be held down with a 13mm bolt and bracket.  In some models, you may have to remove the intake air hoses and air intake to get better access.

If you did not remove the battery terminals, go back and remove them now!  Gently remove all the plugs and cables out of the cable bracket or starter.  Also remove the starter positive wire (1x13mm nut)

Use an extension with the 13mm deep socket to remove the cable bracket that is holding the wires (1x13mm).  There are a few ways to get to it, you could use a 13mm deep socket and feel for it.  Its location is marked in the picture below with the red arrow.  Here is a picture of the bracket from behind.  It is threaded onto the 16mm (or 17mm) long bolt that holds the starter in place.

Here is another picture with the bracket installed.  Yours may slide off with a clip, mine had a 13mm nut resting on top of a 16mm starter/motor mount bolt.  (Like the super deluxe shop mirror?  It's the old side view mirror, left over from the OEM wide angle/blind spot mirror replacement, see 1000q: wide angle blind spot mirror install and FAQ for more details.)

You might also be able to slip the bracket off by releasing this clip.

Remove the 16mm (or 17mm) long bolts holding the starter to the transmission bellhousing (2x 16mm or 2x 17mm).  Note:  they are connected to the motor mount on the other side.  It is possible to remove them without supporting the engine (since there are 3 bolts in total that connect the engine to the motor mount) but it will be very difficult to put back.  I suggest putting a wood block and jack under the engine to hold it in place.  After starter removal, immediately loosely thread the bolts back in the mounts to prevent the chance of engine sag.  Optional: You can also use some sort of engine support bracket from northern tool or harbor freight, pictured below

Mk4 cars need removal of a bolt holding the air conditioning bracket.  It is attached in the same way that the cable bracket above is attached (with a small bolt on top of the long bolt).

The starter can now be removed.

Replacement is the reverse of removal.  

If the (2x 16mm) starter bolts do not want to go back in, you must wiggle the motor mount or engine until it goes in.  Pictured below is the bolt and the threaded end on the motor mount bracket. You can also loosen but do not remove the 3rd motor mount short bolt (1x16mm) to let you move the bracket more.  Below is an mk3, yours may look slightly different.

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