VW Key FAQ for mk4 program, disassembly, replace battery

This page shows how to program mk4 (mark 4, mkiv, 4th generation) VW remotes, replace the battery, or key replacement. This includes the New Beetle, Golf (up to 2006), and Jetta and Passat (up to 2005). For mk3 (1995-1999) Jetta TDI or Passat TDI keyless entry programming, see 1000q: mk3 key FAQ. For mk5 Jetta (2005.5 and newer) remote programming, see 1000q: mk5 remote and key programming.

The remote/key is actually 3 different parts: the keyless entry remote, the metal flip key, and the immobilizer chip. Each must be correct to get the key/remote to work as intended. You must program the immobilizer in addition to the keyless entry or else the immobilizer will shut off the engine after a second. See 1000q: immobilizer FAQ for more details on the anti theft immobilizer.

Misc key info: The key operates at 315 mHz (I guarantee you that the signal cannot be transmitted over a cell phone). The replacement battery for the remote is CR2032. The immobilizer chip does not need a battery because it's an RFID (radio frequency identification) chip activated by the antenna in the ignition key slot. The RFID chip range is about 1" from the ignition key slot when in a key (through plastic) and about 3" when bare.

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-If you have an immobilizer and have an existing broken key (broken remote or flip key), you can salvage the parts out of your existing key and put them into a new key. For example, if the key ring loop is broken, split the key and replace it with a used part. VW doesn't sell just key ring loops. You can also swap your current immobilizer chip into the replacement key instead of bringing it to the dealer. The RFID chip and a closeup are pictured below (white arrow). Then you can program the keyless entry yourself and have a new key cut anyplace that can cut the metal side milled/reverse cut key. You could tape the old chip to the outside of the ignition cylinder but that defeats the immobilizer anti-theft function. And if you dug it out why not just put it into the new key?

-If you have an immobilizer and you don't have an old key to salvage the immobilizer chip out of, you must read the notes below about the SKC code and key variations.

How to tell if you have an immobilizer and differences by year
If you have the yellow car symbol pictured a few paragraphs below on the instrument cluster, you have an immobilizer. The two types of VW immobilizers used in the mk4 generation in North America are immobilizer 2 and 3. Generally speaking, VW up to about 1999 do not have an immobilizer and immo-1 was not equipped on cars sold in the US/Canada.

If you have Immo3, you need a SKC to use a new key, swap instrument clusters, or swap ECUs. The big difference with immo3 is that it you cannot reprogram used immobilizer chips (used keys). Remember, the door-unlock-remote part is separate from the ignition key-chip half, the key fob will still unlock the doors as long as the FCC number is the same. For the Jetta/Golf/New Beetle, immobilizer 2 was introduced during 2000-2001 in the US/Canada. If you have a 2000, it might have immo2, check for the yellow car symbol on the instrument cluster. If your VW is model year 2002-2005, it probably has immo-3. To see if you have immobilizer 2 vs. 3, see the 1000q: immobilizer FAQ . Immo-4 is on 2005.5-2006 and newer mk5 cars.

Pictured below is the immobilizer symbol on a mk5 car. Your yellow car symbol should look the same. If you don't see any immobilizer symbol than you most likely don't have an immobilizer.

Because of the variation in build dates, immobilizer generations, and remote compatibility, I recommend going to the dealer for replacement keys if you don't have an old key to salvage the immobilizer chip out of. It's expensive, but they can set the immobilizer and if it's the wrong part they'll take it back. If you buy an ebay replacement key for an immobilizer car you have to figure out how to program the immobilizer, if your car was a transition year, and there are no refunds once you cut a key.

The cheapest way to get a new key is to buy a replacement key online and then have the dealer program the immobilizer. They'll probably charge you 1 hour labor regardless of how many keys you give them even though it takes about 5 minutes to set it up and about 1 minute per key. You can program up to 4 keys per car.

To find the correct part number, take apart the remote and you'll see a part number printed inside. The part numbers below are only a guide, double check the correct part number with your parts vendor, this website is not responsible if you order the wrong key! There may have been left over parts that were used on your car so the exact VIN number transition may be off. The best way is to double check the FCC ID number and take apart the key to check the part number, see below!

Part numbers (click to see retail prices, make sure you read the above paragraph, double check with your vendor if it's only the remote or the whole key!)

The best way to check your key's part number is to take your key apart and check the printed part number inside.

WITH immobilizer	valet key (no remote section)	Key #1 1j0 959 753f	Key #2 1j0 959 753t	Key #2 1j0 959 753dc or 1j0 959 753 am	Key #2 no panic button
FCC number, misc identification marks		FCC ID: NBG 8137 T CAN: 269 4102 1185A HELLA: 5FA 008 137-30	FCC ID: NBG 735868 T	FCC ID: NBG 735868T (for am) or NBG 92596263 (for dc)
remote section, might not include metal key		1j0 959 753f		1j0 959 753dc or 1j0 959 753 am	1j0 959 753 dj
metal key only without remote section	3b0 837 219 ak	1j0 837 246d	1j0 837 246f	1j0 837 246f

WITHOUT immobilizer (1998-1999, maybe 2000 cars)
VW# 1h0 837 219 a (with light)
VW# 357 837 219 a (without light)
valet key (no remote section) VW# 357 837 185 or 3b0 837 219 h

If you have a car 2000-2001, you might still have the 4 digit plastic tag with the SKC printed on it under a scratch off panel. Pictured below from mark1vws is the plastic tag. If you have a car model year 2001 or higher, or you lost the plastic tag, you don't have an SKC and you cannot program the immobilizer yourself. If you cannot find this then you must retrieve the SKC yourself to work on the immobilizer or program new key chips! VW no longer has access to give you the SKCs. There is a way to retrieve the SKC using a vag tacho cable and software but due to anti-theft reasons, that is all I will say. Search on ebay for the cable. If you want your SKC you must find the black plastic key code or contact someone who has a vag tacho or VAG commander (for CAN BUS cars) to retrieve the SKC from the instrument cluster. VCDS software or the dealer cannot retrieve the SKC. If you happen to have an old 7-digit encoded SKC, you can use it with your VCDS and VCDS will translate it into a 4 digit code.

The SKC is 4 or 7 digits, if your program asks for a 5 digit SKC code, simply input a "0" as the first digit. After 2001, VW used a 7-digit SKC which was really an encoded 4 digit SKC. The dealer input it into their diagnostic tool which translated it into a 4 digit SKC. After 2005, VW used something called the Geko system for distributing SKCs. The SKC goes directly from the Geko Server to the diagnostic tool. The VW tech never sees any code so they aren't lying when they say they cannot give any codes to you!

Because of this trouble with SKCs, the dealer is a good option for getting new keys. They will cut the key and program it. In addition, they will also guarantee that the immo generation is compatible with your car. While it is expensive, it may be cheaper than buying the software to get the SKC and keys and doing it yourself. If you still want to get the 4-digit SKC, search for "Vag-Tacho" software. The copycat version of it off ebay will retrieve the SKC but I don't recommend using it to change any instrument cluster functions like the odometer because its been known to cause instrument cluster failure, and odometer tampering is illegal. If you have a CAN BUS car, Vag-Tacho will not work, you need VAG Commander. Some mk4 cars may still use dual line K depending on the market (Europe, Asia, etc). Lastly, VCDS cannot get an SKC for you and they do not plan on incorporating this hacking feature.

Keyless entry programming
Remember, this only programs the keyless entry, it has nothing to do with the immobilizer, you still have to find someone who can program the immobilizer or take it to the dealer for programming.

To replace the battery, keychain, or switchblade, you have to take the key apart. If you want to replace a broken keychain, just buy the cheapest remote you can find on ebay and swap the battery housings.

To separate the key and remote section, just grab each half and pull hard. There's also a small notch on the side where you can insert a pry.

Here is the other side. Ignore the screw and disc, that's for replacing the switchblade.

Once the remote half is apart, put in a new CR 2032 battery. The negative side (in this pic the side without writing) should face you when you put the battery in. If your keychain is broken, you can just replace that half with a cheap key from ebay.

To replace the switchblade or remove the immobilizer chip, see the pic above with the screw. Use an exacto knife to pry off the VW badge and remove the screw. The switchblade will come apart. I suggest driving the knife where the screw is because there's a little space for it to go under the badge.

The switchblade and button sit on top of a torsion, or twisted spring. This is what makes the switchblade open. The spring sits on a tab in the plastic, note the yellow arrow. Note the tabs when reassembling and twist the switchblade so that it opens correctly. If it's clamped closed then you twisted the spring in the wrong direction.

Do you have any tips on reprogramming your VW smart key or would like to know how to program a key you bought off ebay? Please ask in the myturbodiesel.com forums