VW TDI timing belt part 1 -removal (for Jetta, Golf, New beetle, A4 body ALH engine 1998-2003 TDI)
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difficulty level: 3/5

Introduction

This article is divided into two parts: part 1 which deals with removal of the timing belt, which is also applicable to injection pump, water pump, and cylinder head removal.  Timing belt part 2 deals with installation of the timing belt and final checks.  Disclaimer- this article is revised and updated to include the most current information but is not a substitute for the factory service manual!  See the TOS Agreeement for the full legal disclaimer.  Although a timing belt job can successfully be done with basic tools plus the timing belt tools and basic mechanical experience, improper installation of the timing belt can cause severe engine damage so take all precautions listed in the factory service manual.  If you have never worked on your car, I would suggest staring with easier projects first before doing something as critical as a timing belt!

Differences between this and older writeups on other sites
Torque spec for the vertical motor mount bolt is updated to help avoid stripping, recommended torque spec for the camshaft sprocket is slightly raised, pics added to double check the position of the pump pin, you don't need a cut down allen wrench for the valve cover, stripped crankshaft pulley bolt notes are added, counterholding method for the crankshaft pulley is different, and final pump sprocket adjustment procedure is corrected. 

Note about the VW TDI engine
If you've never done a TDI engine, the main difference is that you must buy/make/rent/borrow the timing belt tools.  Some of the tools such as a counterholding bar or spanner wrench can be substituted with similar tools but the camshaft and injection pump locks are required.  The camshaft and injection pump sprockets are supposed to rotate independently of the camshaft and injection pump once their sprockets are loosened.  They do not use keys to hold the sprockets.  Without the tools, you won't be able to set the sprocket's correct position relative to the camshaft or pump.  Some engines use machined index marks, the TDI engine sprockets are not keyed and the only precise index mark is the flywheel TDC.  Do not try to use paint match marks instead of the locks since many user experiences show that this method has resulted in many damaged engines, even when done by a professional mechanic.  If you read other write-ups on this site you will know that no write-ups here use scaremonger language, this is just reality - get the timing belt tools.  I recommend buying a kit since the other tools are very helpful and worth the price.

Some other tips: If you are not familiar with the engine bay, label each plug or wire with a piece of tape and marker, not pencil.  It will make reinstallation much easier, especially if you are doing other maintenance items over more than 1 day.  See 1000q: tips for the mechanic for more handy tips.  Please read all of the instructions thoroughly before attempting the timing belt replacement.  If you have any questions regarding the tips on this page or the timing belt instructions, do not hesitate to ask at the forums here: myturbodiesel.com forums.  If you are not comfortable after reading the instructions in your factory service manual or the tips on this page, take it to an experienced VW TDI mechanic!

A note regarding the 100k mile timing belt kit - the older and automatic transmission TDI were rated for lower timing belt change intervals.  The reason why the rating was changed was because the new belts use larger rollers and bearings.  Because of this, you must change all rollers, tensioner, and belt to the new style.  There is no reason not to upgrade to the new style and if you already have it, all the idler rollers and water pump should be replaced to last another 100k.  All parts linked below are for the 100k mile parts.

Tools and Parts (click links to compare current prices and kit components, shipping, tax, etc. )

Timing belt kit (recommended) - click the links to see the current prices for the 100k mile kits from Kermatdi, Tdiparts, Dieselgeek,  MetalManparts kit, MetalManparts deluxe kit , worldimpex / worldimpex w/generic parts, or Wild Rose Motors.  Please note that the different kits contain different components.  Because these are all reliable vendors, the linked generic parts are often made by the same supplier as VW and are just as good as genuine VW parts.  The kits above vary in what they contain so below are individual components.  

CAUTION - generic parts available on ebay or other online sellers may be of questionable origin and may not be the 100k part since some similar parts are also used on other VW/Audi engines.  The above linked sites are all reliable and experienced TDI vendors.

CAUTION - do not buy the or any other of this seller's copycat sites' timing belt kit.  They are low quality copycat parts!  It's not worth saving $100 when it can result in $1000s in engine damage!

Parts list for timing belt (all required for 100k mile belt)
038 109 119M  long life 100k mile timing belt from worldimpex genuine VW , worldimpex generic part , from tdiparts , from MMparts
038 109 243N timing belt tensioner from genuine VW , generic part , from tdiparts , from MMparts
038 109 244M large idler pulley from genuine VW , generic part , from tdiparts , from MMparts
058 109 244 small top idler pulley from genuine VW , generic part , from tdiparts , from MMparts
038 109 244E small lower idler pulley genuine VW , generic part , from tdiparts , from MMparts
038 121 011A water pump genuine VW , generic part 1 , generic part 2 , from tdiparts , generic part tdiparts , generic part MM
038 145 345 vacuum pump seal (end of camshaft) genuine VW
G12 coolant, (to replace lost coolant - do not use generic green coolant, see 1000q: coolant flush for more details , you may only need 1.5 size liter of pentosin) , genuine VW (1 gallon size , VW #G 012 A8F A4 ) genuine VW (1.5 liter size, VW #G 012 A8F M1), generic Pentosin coolant from worldimpex , from tdiparts , from MM(1.5 liter size, VW #ZVW 237 G12)
Always replace bolts
available as a kit from tdiparts , kit from MMparts + second kit from MM parts or individually below
N 106 653 01 engine mount-body bolts genuine VW
N 102 096 05 engine mount-engine bracket bolts genuine VW
N 903 285 04 injection pump bolts (if yours are the old style stretch bolts they should be replaced, otherwise optional, 3x bolts)  genuine VW
Optional parts
crankshaft pulley/harmonic balancer bolts (these often get stripped, 4x bolts, note that pre 2003 cars may use a different harmonic balancer and bolts than 2003 cars), from tdiparts
N 019 531 5 small top idler pulley bolt genuine VW
N 905 969 02 large idler pulley bolt genuine VW
N 101 725 01 valve cover bolts genuine VW , from tdiparts

VW special timing belt tools:
3036 camshaft holding lock
3418 camshaft setting plate (can also use T10093)
2587/T10020 2 pin spanner wrench (for tensioner)
3359 injection pump lock pin (you can substitute this with the back end of a 6mm drill bit, 15/64 drill bit, or an allen wrench)
t40001 puller set (for camshaft sprocket)

These tools are also available as a kit from Metalnerd and are distributed by dieselgeek for metalnerd.  They are also available for rental from MMparts.  If you have fabrication skills, here are pictures of the VW timing belt tools (not metalnerd) and their dimensions.  These pictures are thumbnails, click for a larger view.  Pics and measurement of TB tools by Ray_G
     

Regular tools:
5mm and 6mm ball end allen wrenches, (pictured below left).  You do not need a ground down allen for the valve cover.
metric offset wrenches
regular and deep socket metric wrenches
T25 Torx socket
torque wrench
screwdrivers
regular pliers and spring hose clamp pliers (pictured below right, these are optional and are the remote operated type)
wheel chocks/blocks of wood, floor car jacks, jack stands

Timing belt removal procedure - part 1 

If you wish to use a service cover, do so now.  I use an old clean towel and tape it to the fender to prevent scratches.  If you have a belt buckle or watch, it will put a ton of scratches into the finish.  Also make sure you don't have loose necklaces, sleeves, etc., consult your factory service manual for all cautions, always wear eye protection, etc.  See the TOS for the full legal disclaimer.

Remove upper intercooler output hard pipe labeled below as 1 and air filter box accordion hose 2 (2 band clamps each).  Tape over the intake so nothing can fall into it.  I try to avoid using paper towels because they can get pushed further into piping and forgotten.  Tape will seal the hose tightly and not fall in like a paper towel can.  Now look at 3, the vacuum pump.

Remove the vacuum line from vacuum support bracket (10mm x2 bolts, red arrows in below pic).  These bolts are holding the bracket, which is sitting on top of the bolts holding the vacuum pump.  If you have a manual transmission car, remove the coolant glow wires and label as 1, 2, 3.  The automatic transmission car does not have these glow plugs.  Remove the center coolant glow plug to get access to the vacuum line support bracket bolts.  Unbolt vacuum pump (13mm x3 bolts, 1 bolt marked with green arrow) and move to the side.

An offset wrench is suggested here due to the coolant glow plugs blocking access to the bolts (ignore the disconnected coolant hoses).  The 10mm is sitting on top of the 13mm bolt.

This is where the 3 bolts were after you removed them (circled in red).  Here you can see the horizontal slot where the camshaft lock will rest in a later step.

Remove coolant reservoir overflow hose 1 and coolant sensor plug 2 . This is a good time to check for coolant migration, see 1000q: coolant migration for more details.  Remove the fuel lines 3  and tuck them to the side.  Diesel fuel melts rubber so wad a rag around the ends to prevent excessive spills.  Optional - you can change the fuel filter if it's due for it's 20,000 mile change.  See 1000q: fuel filter change if you need more tips.  If you are not sure which line goes where, label fuel lines and fuel filter "1 and 2, A and B, supply and return, etc. and whatever" so they go back onto the correct spot.  In this picture, you can see a blue mark on the hose (right side of pic) that lines up with a notch on the intake piping.  Note the mark positions when you are putting it back. 

Remove the 2 phillips screws (circled in green below) that secure the coolant reservoir tank and place the tank to the side, or remove if coolant has been drained.

Unbolt power steering reservoir and move to the side (5mm x1 allen bolt, bolt hole outlined in red, pictured below)

Optional - remove the intercooler outpipe hard pipe, outlined in light blue (1 band clamp).  This will give you a bit more clearance.  To get access to the lower spring clamp, you will probably have to remove the passenger side headlight rear access cover.  Tape over the exposed coupler so nothing falls into the intercooler piping.  I don't like using paper towels because they tend to get stuffed down the piping.  Sorry for the odd picture but the rubber "elbow" hose to the intake manifold and fuel lines pictured below should have already been removed.

Remove upper timing belt outer cover (5 metal clips outlined in yellow below)

Remove valve cover bolts (5mm x7 allen bolts) and loosen crankcase ventilation (CCV) hose on top of the valve cover.  If the cover cannot be removed by hand, use a block of wood to gently tap the valve cover off, do not hit directly on the valve cover with a hammer.  You do not need a special stubby allen bit cut down.  Just use a regular allen ball end wrench, pictured below, to get to the hard to reach bolts.  After removing the cover, try to keep the cover on if you are leaving the car alone for a while.  This will keep dirt or tools from falling inside and helps keep moisture out.

Set the engine to TDC.  Both of the camshaft #1 lobes (closest to passenger side on a North American left hand drive car) should be pointing up, brake booster vacuum pump slot at the other end of the camshaft should be horizontal (marked with red lines in the pic below).  The reason why the camshaft lobes should be pointing up is because this indicates that they are not pushing open the valves.  The camshaft lock should fit in the machined slot at the end of the camshaft.  If the camshaft lock is in and the #1 lobes are pointing up, the TDC mark on the flywheel should be close to the viewing window on the transmission.

Do not torque the lock or use it to counterhold the camshaft or timing belt because it can break the camshaft!  You don't have to lock it down yet.  If you have already removed the harmonic balancer, go ahead and lock the camshaft at TDC.  If you haven't removed the harmonic balancer (next step), you don't want the camshaft holding back the engine and torquing on the lock.

Turn the engine slowly so that the flywheel TDC index mark is centered in the window.  I painted mine red for faster identification, the mark is stamped onto the flywheel.  Pictured below is a manual transmission, if you have an automatic transmission, the "0" and dashed stamp should be put at the bottom of the rectangular slot, not the center.  Below right is a flywheel removed from the car w/red mark.  On a manual transmission car, you won't be able to see the "0", you will only be able to see a "dash".

Note: (car should be out of gear or in "park" when you turn the engine over).  Do not apply any significant force to the crankshaft bolt because it is a one use only stretch bolt.  Note that the torque value for the bolt is much higher than the force you apply to turn the engine.  Avoid turning the engine opposite it's normal rotation because the engine and accessories such as the alternator, etc., have developed a wear pattern for one direction of rotation.  As a matter of opinion, I feel that on the ALH TDI engine, using a sprocket counterholding bar on the camshaft sprocket is a safe way to turn the engine because it has a lot of teeth engaging the timing belt.  Do not use the injection pump sprocket or water pump to turn over the engine.  If the serpentine belt is on, I would just use the crankshaft sprocket since it helps spread out the load and this is where the timing belt is normally "turned" from.  

If the car is not on jackstands yet, engage the parking brake, jack up the car, rest car securely on jack stands, chock the rear wheels, and make sure the car is secure before doing anything else.  There are tips on jacking cars and making wood jack blocks at 1000q: tips for the mechanic , 1000q: making wood jack blocks.

Below the car...

If the engine lower shield and passenger side engine side shield have not been removed yet, remove them now. (torx for lower shield, 1 torx and 2 speed nuts for side shields)  Speed nuts can be removed by turning them with a screwdriver. 

You should see the harmonic balancer pulley on the passenger side.  It is attached to the crankshaft.  There are 4 allen bolts that are can be hard to remove (1 is circled in yellow) (picture right).  Spray them with PB blaster penetrating lubricant now or else they will be difficult to remove later.  The PB blaster needs time to soak and absorb.  Let it soak and work on other stuff in the meantime. If they end up getting stripped, you can use an EZ out bolt extractor like the one pictured below to grip the heads.  You can really remove these bolts anytime but I suggest a soaking first.

Warning: do use the 19mm large center crank bolt to counterhold the allen bolts!  As mentioned earlier, it is a stretch bolt and the force being applied to the bolt is high!  To counterhold the pulley, put the car in gear and have someone step on the brakes.  Many suggest that you can use the bolt to turn the engine over but not to counterhold the allen bolts.  This is because the force being applied to the bolt is low when turning over the engine.  You may also want to remove the camshaft lock if it is in just in case it is counterholding the crankshaft (the camshaft lock is not for counterholding and can damage the machined surfaces, it should say on your lock - not for torquing).

Remove the turbo-intercooler pipe or just bend it out of the way.  If you are removing the turbo or cylinder head, you should completely remove it, otherwise the rubber section at the turbo is soft enough to let you bend it.  Start at the intercooler end by removing the 1 band clamp and the 1x 10mm nut securing the plastic hard pipe attached to the rubber pipe.  If you want to remove it completely, remove the 1 hose clamp at the turbo outlet (in green in 2nd lower pic).  Tape off the turbo outlet and intercooler inlet pipes.

Above or Below the car...

Remove serpentine belt with offset metric wrench, outlined in green picture below.  Check the tensioner from below to make sure that the wrench is securely on the bolt head, red line below.  If it slips while you are removing the serpentine belt, your fingers will be severely pinched so be careful.  While you are under there, you should also consider tightening the AC compressor pulley, see 1000q: AC compressor nut for more details and why.  The AC nut is the rusted center nut on the funny looking pulley at center-right of the picture.

Unbolt the harmonic balancer pulley.  If you let the 4 allen bolts soak with penetrating lubricant, they should be easier to remove now.  Don't let it drop when you remove the last bolt.  (6mm x4 allen bolts).  If you have a manual transmission car, put the car into gear or have some step on the brakes to prevent the crankshaft (which the harmonic damper pulley is attached to) from turning.  If you have a choice, try to use a 6mm allen bit on a wrench here since it reduces twisting and the chance for stripping the allen bolt.  I used PB blaster so it was not an issue.  Using PB Blaster has caused some bolts to come out very easily, other times it gets stripped even when using a 6mm bit.  

If the harmonic balancer is stuck, use a rubber hammer or a piece of wood to knock it back and forth to wiggle it off.  The 4 bolt holes are not symmetrical.  The pulley will only go on with the holes oriented in the correct pattern.  Some timing belt kits include replacement hardened allen bolts, post 2003 engines may use a different length bolt than pre 2003 engines so check with your parts vendor.

During this step, I suggest removing any timing belt locking tools temporarily that are being used to hold the engine.  If the camshaft lock slips, it could damage the machined surfaces on the head or cam.  

Above and below the car...

Remove engine mount alignment plate outlined in green below (13mm x2 bolts).  Remove the engine mount on the fender side (16mm x2 bolts circled in green).  You must support the engine BEFORE you remove the (18mm x2 bolts circled in red).  I prefer to support the engine from below before removing any bolts, jacking it up until there is a slight movement up, indicating the weight is no longer on the mounts.  The red circled bolts are stretch bolts, make sure you use new bolts here!

Raise the engine slightly to get the weight of the engine off the engine mount.  You should use a block of wood on the corner of the oil pan or the factory method of a bracket above the car to support the engine as pictured below.  Refer to your service manual for more details on the bracket.  If you want to just buy one, they are available at Northern Tool or Harbor Freight.  Pictured below is an example of this bracket being used on another model TDI.  The oil pan is aluminum, so be careful when jacking up the engine - always use a piece of wood between the jack and the oil pan!  If the engine or jack slips, the engine will fall and could cause injury to persons or property, so make sure the engine is secure!

This next part is more complicated.  Raise and lower the engine to expose the remaining engine mount bolts..  The wheel well is blocking access to all 3 bolts at the same time.  Since the bolts are hidden, here is the engine mount removed from the car.  Until the timing belt rollers are removed, don't bother trying to remove the mount - it won't come out.  You can also leave the bottom bolt only hand loose so that the mount can be pivoted and isn't in the way while you remove the belt.  

I removed the mount so I could take a pic, bolt locations circled in yellow, arrow orients mount up.  Note that 1 bolt is of different length, label them!

Remove timing belt rear cover (10mm x5 bolts), note the order in which it comes off and the tabs on the edges.

Above the car...

Double check that the engine flywheel mark is still at TDC.  You are about to loosen the timing belt and want to lock the position of the crankshaft/flywheel TDC mark, camshaft, and injection pump using the timing belt tools.

Insert crankshaft lock, double check that the engine is still at the TDC marks.

Loosen the timing belt tensioner (13mm) bolt and use the spanner wrench to relieve the tension on the timing belt by turning it counterclockwise in the direction of the yellow arrow.

Insert injection pump locking pin to lock the injection pump if you couldn't get it in before.

CAUTION - The pin must be aligned with the center of the mark on the injection pump cover and the sprocket center bolt - double check it with a mirror.  I have highlighted the orientation with a red line in the picture below.  When you put everything back together later, if the pin is not perfectly aligned with the mark on the cover, the IP sprocket bolt, and not in the hole, it is not in the correct place and your car will not run well!  If you are really looking closely at the picture, the camera wasn't at the perfect angle but the pin is aligned with the bolt and the IP index mark. 

NOTE - double check the position with a mirror!   If you were to place the pin to the left or right of the hole you could have trouble starting the car or have injection timing outside of the acceptable range.  This is a common mistake because there are spaces to the left and right of the hole on the pump which the pin can go into.  Here are more pictures, the pin should be aligned with the center of the square mark on the pump and be in the hole.

Loosen injection pump sprocket bolts (10mm x3 bolts).  The large center bolt is connected to the injection pump - do not loosen the large bolt.  Each bolt hole is shaped like an oval and has some play so the injection pump sprocket can be rotated without moving the injection pump because you locked it with the pin.

Loosen the camshaft sprocket (19mm x1 bolt in red below).  Note that the camshaft lock at the other end is NOT for counter holding the camshaft sprocket bolt.  You will damage the camshaft if too much pressure is applied to this lock.  It's best if one person does this so they can apply equal amounts of pressure to the bolt and to the counter hold bar at the same time so the camshaft doesn't turn.  Since the camshaft sprocket is a tapered fit onto the camshaft, loosening the bolt will not release the sprocket yet.

(Below picture is from an earlier generation TDI and is for illustrative purposes only, don't use a torque wrench for loosening).

You don't have to completely remove the bolt, just loosen it enough so that it can catch the camshaft sprocket when it pops off.

Use the t4001 puller to remove the camshaft sprocket.  It is pressed on by a machined tapered fit.  It might look like there is a key missing but there is not supposed to be a key on the camshaft sprocket.  This is a major reason why you must use the timing belt tools to lock the camshaft position.  

If you do not have a puller, you can use a punch to tap it off from the inside edge but I suggest a puller since it's more even and a punch could nick the sprocket.  Like earlier VW's, early 1998 New beetle TDI have a hole in the inner timing belt cover where you can use a punch to pop the sprocket off, later ALH engines also have a mark where the hole used to be, you could drill a hole if it's an emergency.  Pictured below is an earlier generation VW timing belt showing where to use the punch if you have a hole.  Use a gear puller if possible, one is included in the metalnerd tool kit linked at the top.

You can now remove the old timing belt tensioner, old timing belt, and the rollers as needed, note their original positions!

Remove water pump if needed.  1000 answered questions: ALH: water pump replacement
If you need to remove the cylinder head, you can refer to : 1000q: cylinder head removal

end of timing belt part 1, refer to timing belt part 2 for how to put everything back.

Disclaimer : This page provides only tips to doing the timing belt and any or all tips here are superceded by and are not a substitute for the services of a professional mechanic or the official procedure listed in the factory service manual.  This procedure is rated at 3/5 difficulty, most people with any mechanical experience can successfully do this procedure by following their official factory service manual.  By following any or all of these tips, myturbodiesel.com is not responsible for a messed up timing belt job or any damages resulting from it.  The full legal disclaimer can be read at the TOS agreement.