Strut, spring, mount, and bearing installation on mk4 Jetta, Golf, or New Beelte

This article shows how to install strut/shocks on a Jetta, Golf, New Beetle (for 1998-2006 mk4 body). Most pictures are mirrored and resized from http://fortuneman.tripod.com/suspension/install.htm. The pictured springs are H&R which lower the car by 1.5", and Bilstein shocks.

Shocks/struts, springs, and other suspension bushings and mounts were not meant to last forever. Carrying heavy loads, rough roads, or a damaged shock/strut boot may cause the suspension to wear out faster than normal. If you want to return to a like-new ride, replacing these parts will help. However, to fully restore your suspension to new levels, you should replace all of the suspension bushings in addition to the shocks, springs, and mounts. As a rough test of the condition of the struts, push down on a corner of the car. If it immediately returns in 1 bounce, it is probably in good shape. If it does not immediately return or bounces more than once, it may be worn. Also take a look at the shock/strut damper piston and inspect two things: if you can see the metal piston, you should consider changing the boot because the boot serves to protect the seals from dirt. Your VW TDI has gas dampers, but you switched to liquid shocks, check for pooled or a noticeable amount of liquid around the shock piston, indicating bad shock seals.

Note that shock/strut/damper are often used interchangeably. A damper is any "shock absorber". A strut is a damper that replaces the upper suspension arm and normally carries the spring. This is what VW uses and is called a McPherson strut. A shock is normally just the damper. The struts do not control the ride height either. The springs carry the weight of the car and control ride height, the struts just dampen the motion.

Here are some brand/models that people have been happy with in the past but remember that ride quality and harshness are highly subjective! Someone's soft ride may feel hard to you. Sporty to one person may be "kidney bruising" to you. Brands that many people are happy with are Bilstein, Koni, and Monroe. The Monroe sensatracks are said to be comfortable. The Koni reds are a premium stock-like ride, the koni yellows are a sport-ride and comparable to the bilstein HD. The Bilstein TC (touring class) shocks are an economy twin tube design and is a "close to OEM but stiffer" ride. The Bilstein HD are a stiffer monotube shock and a good choice for a sportier (stiffer and rougher). Both are for stock height suspensions. There are also TC sport suspension, which are designed to be used as replacement with the lowered sport suspension. These are only for the lowered or sport suspensions!. I avoid the OEM VW sachs or boge replacements because they are more expensive and softer than the TC touring class shocks. Also remember that the tire sidewalls are an important part of the suspension, taller tire sidewalls (higher aspect ratio) will dampen more than thin short sidewalls.

This is also a good time to inspect the brakes, anti-roll/sway bar bushings, and lower control arm (LCA) bushings, in that order of priority. The sway bar bushings are worn out by 100,000 miles and should be replaced as needed. A symptom of bad sway bar bushings is a clunking noise from the front when you go over small bumps and potholes. To replace the LCA bushings, just unbolt the links and bolts that hold the LCA and remove the LCA from the car. Once you're down there it's not much more work and it will restore all the major parts of the suspension that get worn out. It will make strut removal a little easier but it's less of a priority than the swar bar bushings and struts.

Your car will need an alignment after strut replacement. Drive for a day first to let the suspension settle in.

Parts (click links to compare prices, always double check the part # and quantity with your vendor)

Notes - Some struts come with mounts, bearings, or boots so always check before ordering those parts! Bilstein HD or Bilstein Sports have internal bump stops, you don't need bump stops with these shocks. New rear strut mounts are recommended. This will restore the bushing and some report a clunking when not replaced. If you have good regular front bump stops and are lowering the suspension, you can cut the old stops to get to the correct length. In your manual, you will see a few stretch bolts or self locking nuts used on the suspension, these are listed below.

Tools and hardware
metric socket set
7mm allen wrench
spring compressor set - free rental at many auto parts stores
impact wrench or strong arms
Metalnerd strut spreader MN3424 (pictured below), from tdiparts, from metalnerd,

Metalnerd MN2122 strut counterholder (pictured below), gearwrench pass through wrench, or can use modified 13/16" standard spark plug socket or other methods shown below. VW tool #3186 (not recommended if using aftermarket struts).

stretch bolt set from tdiparts.com OR individual components below
(2 total) VW# n 102 078 03 Strut pinch bolts , set from tdiparts, from worldimpex
(2 total) VW# n 101 064 02 Strut pinch nuts, from worldimpex
(2 total) VW# n 905 173 02 Rear shock bottom bolts, set from tdiparts , "screw" from worldimpex
(2 total) VW# n 102 861 02 Rear shock bottom nuts, from worldimpex
(4 total) WV# n 906 484 01 Rear strut bolts from tdiparts, from worldimpex

(2 tota) VW# 357 413 175a front strut boots , from worldimpex (generic or genuine VW), from mjmautohaus
(2 total) VW# 1j0 412 303 Sport (short) front bump stops , from tdiparts
(2 total) VW# 1h0 412 303b Regular (regular length) front bump stops , from tdiparts , from worldimpex (generic or genuine VW)
(2 total) VW# 1j0 412 249 front strut bearing, mount/bearing from mjmautohaus , mount/bearing from tdiparts, bearing only-worldimpex (generic or genuine VW)
(2 total) VW# 1j0 412 311c front strut mount

(2 total) VW# 1j0 512 131b Regular rear bump stops ,from tdiparts , from worldimpex (generic or genuine VW) , from mjmautohaus
(2 total) VW# 1j0 512 131c Sport rear bump stops ,from tdiparts, from worldimpex , from mjmautohaus
(2 total) VW# 1j0 513 353d rear strut mount, (sport mount replaced all earlier comfort mount #1j0 513 353g) , from tdiparts , from worldimpex (generic or genuine VW)

10mm aluminum spacer (don't torque too tight) to raise the ride height 1cm (2 required), VW# 1j0 412 311a, from worldimpex (sold single), from tdiparts (sold in pairs)
lower control arm bushing VW# 8n0 407 181b , from worldimpex (generic or genuine VW)
front sway bar bushings VW# 1j0 411 314t (for 23mm sway bar, replaced #1j0 411 314g) , from tdiparts , from worldimpex (genuine VW or generic)

Work on one end of the car at a time if you don't have a lift. Feel free to sign up and ask a question about this article at the forums here: myturbodiesel.com forums

CAUTION - do not rest the jack stands on the suspension or rear axle. This can act like a fulcrum or move and cause the car to fall down. You need the suspension to be able to move while you work on it. Always use the factory jack points as specified in the service manual. Then chock the wheels, apply the parking brake, and make sure the car is safe and secure before working on it! Never get under the car while it's supported by hydraulic jacks since these can fail - these are for raising the car only. This article is not a substitute for the factory service manual or the services of a professional mechanic. See the TOS Agreement for the full legal disclaimer.

Summary: remove the bolts securing the struts and remove the strut assembly from the car. Compress the spring with a spring compressor and disassemble. Replace.

Remove the 18mm bolts/nuts on the bottom of the strut. If it's rusty you should soak it in PB Blaster and let sit. This will make it much easier to remove rusted/seized fasteners. See 1000q: mechanic's tips for more ideas. There may be a brake pad sensor on some cars, unclip as necessary.

The strut sits in a cup. You have to spread the cup to pull the strut up and out. You could use a heavy duty screwdriver or prybar but the easiest way is to just buy the Metalnerd strut spreader MN3424 linked above. It's the right shape/size to pry open the little pocket in the strut cup.

The author started on the right front. This is the harder side. Because the strut sits in a cup, you need a little more clearance to pull it out on the right side.

The Bentley says to remove the axle on the pass side but these tips below are easier.

One way is to lower the subframe on the right side. There are 2 bolts to loosen the sub frame. Support the subframe's weight with a jack while you loosen the bolts. Don't take the bolt all the way out since it will be difficult to put back, 1 inch should be enough clearance. Once they are loosened, gently lower the subframe. This is pictured below.

If you are also replacing the LCA bushings, removing the LCA from the ball joint will give you enough clearance.

The last way to remove the strut is to compress the spring while it's still on the car. This is more risky because you could get pinched and you need room to put on the spring compressors. Some need to be installed upside down due to clearance and this could cause an issue when tightening the compressors.

Whichever way you used, you should have enough clearance to remove the strut assembly. Remove the brake line and make sure it doesn't get pulled or stressed! If the brake line is damaged then you could lose braking action!

Here the strut is removed out of the cup. The author used a screwdriver and a wrench to pry open the cup, I suggest getting the metalnerd tool so you don't damage the screwdriver or gouge your hand when it slips.

Pull off the plastic cover for the strut and remove the 21mm nut at the top holding the strut. If you have an impact wrench, you can use it for removal but don't use it for tightening that nut! The issue is that without an impact wrench, you have to counterhold the strut while loosening the nut. More on this below.

If you don't have an impact wrench, you can use the Metalnerd MN2122 strut counterholder (pictured below and in use at right), a gearwrench pass through ratchet, a 13/16 spark plug socket, to counterhold the strut shaft. If you don't, then the strut shaft will just spin and you won't loosen anything. These techniques can also be used when you have to tighten the nut. VW tool #3186 will work but it doesn't have sizes for aftermarket nuts, the metalnerd MN2122 does.

The advantage of the metalnerd tool is that it has a square cutout for adapting a torque wrench (always mate at 90^o angle!), is cheaper than buying a new wrench set, and works. It also has both 21mm and 22mm ends for OEM and aftermarket struts.

Here is the gearwrench pass through ratchet. It lets you loosen the bolt while using an allen wrench to counterhold the shaft.

A 13/16" spark plug socket works but remember that some aftermarket nuts are 22mm. You also have to cut slots into the side to hold the socket.

Here is another idea - use two nuts tightened against each other can counterhold the shaft - my VW strut did not have enough threads to do this and I had the tools.

First strut removed.

Use the spring compressors to compress the springs. Be careful when using! An impact wrench will make compressing it faster.

If you don't have a spring compressor, they can be loaned at many auto parts stores for free. Note the order of the bushings, mounts, etc.

There is another nut in there, remove and the spring will come apart. Note the disassembly order.

While still compressed, put the new springs onto the new shock. The author had new lowering springs, compress them as needed. Note the order. Remember that you can't use an impact wrench to tighten the nuts, counterhold the strut shaft and use hand tools! Both nuts are 44 ft lbs. The metalnerd tool has a spot to adapt a torque wrench (must be attached at a 90^o angle!) and has 21mm and 22mm sockets, another reason to it. For tips on how to use a torque wrench, see 1000q: torque wrench FAQ.

Put the assembly back on.

For the fronts, all bolts/nuts are 44 ft lbs + 1/4 turn. The lower bolt/nut should be 44+ a little over 1/4 turn. All suspension components should be tightened in the loaded position - not fully extended and not fully compressed. Hand tighten the fasteners and then use a jack to help you lift the entire assembly/arm to put on the top bolt. Make sure to tighten the subframe bolts if you loosened them, to 74 ft lbs + 1/4 turn. Replace the heat shield, brake line, or brake sensor as needed.

Repeat for the left side. The front left side is easier since you don't need to need to lower the subframe to get clearance. You may have to disconnect the antisway bar, pictured below.

Replace the tires and slowly lower the car.

Raise the rear end, taking all the precautions as mentioned before - chock the front wheels, rest the car on jack stands, etc.

The rears are much easier, there is 1x 16mm bolt and 2 bolts at the top. You can use a jack to help move the shock, remember that the arms should be in a neutral position when tightening the bolts.

If you are replacing the springs, pry out the springs. If not, leave them alone. Just make sure to note the orientation of the spring against the bushings.

Remove the top strut mount (2x 16mm bolts). You can use an impact wrench here for removal.

Remove the top mount. As with the fronts, counterhold the strut shaft while loosening the bolt.

Thread the bolts back hand tight only and then, like the front suspension, load the suspension before fully tightening the bolts. You can use a jack to slightly raise the suspension arm or use another method to load the rear of the car.

The upper strut mount bolts are 22 ft lbs + 1/4 turn. The lower bolts are 30 ft lbs + 1/4 turn.

Repeat for the other side. You should drive for a day to let the suspension settle in and then get an alignment.

Here are all the torque specs in case you forgot: For tips on how to use a torque wrench, see 1000q: torque wrench FAQ.

Front upper (top) strut nut: 44 ft lbs
Front upper (middle, holding the strut assembly) nut: 44 ft lbs
Front lower strut bolt/nut: 44 ft lbs + slightly more than 1/4 turn
Front sway bar/link nut: 37 ft lbs + 1/4 turn

Rear upper strut bolts: 22 ft lbs + 1/4 turn
Rear lower strut bolt/nut: 30 ft lbs + 1/4 turn