Part 2 - oil pump balance shaft assembly replacement on BHW engine Passat TDI - part 2
difficulty: 4/5
back to 1000q: B5.5 2004 2005 VW Passat TDI "how to" index
back to part 1 - oil pump balance shaft assembly replacement
(engine was out of car for illustration)
Remove the vac reservoir bracket/foam insulation (2x 8mm allen head bolts) pictured previously if you haven't removed it yet.
Remove the oil pan (2x 16mm bolts and 18x 5mm allen head bolts, some
indicated below). Use the 5 mm long ball end allen (metalnerd MNQ6H5)
on the 2 allen bolts by the transmission. The transmission is normally in
the way so you have to get them at an angle (reason for using ball end allen) or
use some extensions and joints. The oil pan
should come off easily so if it's still stuck, check for missed bolts. If
you're sure it's free, gently tap around the edge of the flange with a block of
wood. Once it's off, cover the exposed engine parts and use a
razor/green scotch brite to clean the sealing surfaces as much as possible.
Remove the front oil seal flange (6x 10mm bolts, pic is from an earlier
step). Once it's off, put a
few drops of PB Blaster or other penetrating lubricant around the edges of the oil seal and let it penetrate for
at least a minute.
This will make seal removal much easier. Press out the old front crankshaft seal
from the backside with a socket of the appropriate diameter wrapped in
tape to prevent scratches to the sealing surfaces. Do not install the new front seal.
Remove the lower plastic chain cover
(2x T20 torx screws, white arrows). Note the green arrows for a later step.
Loosen the small oil pump sprocket bolts (4x 6mm allen, one of the bolts
pictured already has an allen bit on it). Put the crankshaft
sprocket back on (with crank yank attached) to counterhold the chain and small oil pump sprocket.
Remove the oil chain tensioner, the green arrows in the previous picture (2x 8mm triple square and 1x 6mm allen head bolt). Mark the direction of the oil chain if you are going to reuse it and remove it along with the small sprocket (since you loosened the bolts earlier). These parts will not be reused on the new assembly.
Now prepare to remove the oil chain's crankshaft sprocket. The service
manual shows use of VW puller T40001 with claws /3 and /5. Others have
suggested and I suggest using VW puller T10392 as shown below but it needs to be
ground down a little to fit correctly. The advantage is that it
pulls much closer to the base of the sprocket, has 4 arms instead of 2, and it's
less likely to shatter the sprocket and make it difficult to remove. You
could use a 3 arm puller but this tool has 4 evenly spaced arms and is easy to
use. If the sprocket shatters, remove the nearest crankshaft bearing main cap (#1 cap, 2x 17mm bolts) to get clearance and
knock off the sprocket from behind. The crankshaft cap bolts are
single use only bolts so if you remove them you must replace them.
Squirt some PB Blaster or other penetrating lubricant at the base of the sprocket and clean the sprocket snout to help avoid scratches. It needs time to penetrate and the sprocket is so tight I'm not sure it can penetrate at all. If not, it should help lube the sprocket as it comes off. Take this time to modify the puller to fit correctly.
The pegs on puller T10392 are round. Slightly grind the inside face of
the pegs to clear the sprocket holes as pictured below and by the red line.
Don't remove too much! Once
that's done, squirt some more lube around the sprocket.
Insert the base
plate that came with the tool into the crankshaft bolt hole and put the puller on top of that. As
you tighten the bolt, tension will increase until the sprocket comes
off. Tighten it a few turns, wait, then tighten it a few more turns.
You can gently tap the tool's bolt with a rubber mallet to help shake the sprocket
off. Don't try to pull it off too fast, let the tension come down slightly
before tightening it more.
Loosen the 6x 10mm triple square bolts and 2x 8mm triple square (also has 10mm hex head) bolts holding the balance shaft assembly from outside to inside in a diagonal sequence, starting from the outside in. First loosen them all about 1/2 turn before loosening them further and removing each bolt. This helps avoid stressing the assembly or block. If you need a suggested order, refer to the picture below showing the tightening sequence and do it in reverse. Make sure you're not loosening the other bolts. If you look at the sides you can verify which bolts hold the module to the engine.
Put the new crankshaft gear in an oven and bake it to around 430oF for 20 minutes. Do not exceed 464oF. The best way to measure the gear's temperature is with a "laser pointer" style non contact thermometer on the inner diameter (the hole) on the gear. According to runonbeer and mogolf, it won't go on at about 390oF (200oC) but will easily slip on at about 430oF (220oC). Place it on the middle rack without foil to evenly heat both sides of the gear. I suggest cleaning it before cooking it to avoid an oil odor in the oven. While you're waiting, you can put the balance shaft assembly on the block because the crankshaft gear can go on before or after the balance shaft assembly.
Using a heat resistant glove and a large socket, press the heated new gear onto the crankshaft all the way. Use a large socket or another round tool to firmly hold it flat against the crankshaft until the gear cools and tightens around the crankshaft. It must be perfectly flat or else the new gears will be damaged. If in doubt, use the sprocket puller and reheat, then try again.
The flat side of the crankshaft gear's center hole (the side with the
letters/numbers) should be facing you and visible when installed. The
other side (tapered side of the center hole) should be
facing the curved part on the crankshaft snout. On my install I could see a small ridge just beyond when the sprocket meets the crankshaft as
shown below left and right. I believe that one of the ridges was visible just past
the gear after installation and wasn't a wear mark from the old oil seal.
Remove the 2 assembly sleeves/alignment pins from the old module and put them on the new balance
shaft module. Gently tap
them in all the way. It's normal to have a split lengthwise. During
removal, I suggest
using pliers wrapped with a shop rag to help avoid marring them.
Lock the balance shaft position with T10255 - it will only fit at one
orientation.
You can use detailing clay to help stick it in place or have a helper hold it
centered.
Install the new assembly on the engine. Make sure the dipstick is out of the way when you reinstall the assembly. The shorter hex head/triple square bolt goes to position "8". The two bolts labeled "5" and "7" are 8mm triple square/10mm hex head bolts. One of the 8mm triple square/ 10mm hex head bolts is longer, it'll be obvious where it goes. The other bolts are all the same.
Note: the order of tightening shown here is the same as the service manual and the first .pdf installation writeup by oilhammer/mogolf. The labels are different from the .pdf installation writeup because the picture below is oriented the same as the picture in the service manual.
Tighten all bolts to 6 ft-lb. Then tighten in the sequence pictured below. The 8mm triple square bolts "5" and "7" are torqued to 9.6 ft-lb. Other bolts to 14.8 ft-lb. (CAUTION: make sure to reset your torque wrench to the lower value when tightening bolts 5 and 7!)
Then tighten each bolt a final 1/4 turn (90o) in the correct
sequence. Make sure you're not tightening the other bolts since they're
mostly 10mm triple square. If you look at the sides you can verify which
bolts hold the module to the engine.
Install the balance shaft gear but keep its 4x 10mm bolts a little bit loose (see below pics). Leave one bolt off to make sure the holes are about centered.
Install the intermediate gear, noting the thrust washer's ears underneath the gear
(they should fit into a cut-out), and keep
its 14mm triple square bolt loose - it must be able to move a little! This
spot for the gear is why you cannot convert your old assembly to gear drive.
Put the front main seal flange and the crankshaft sprocket on. Put the
bolts on but don't tighten them much or to their final torque. You
just want to make
sure the front flange is flat so you can set the crankshaft to TDC. Install the crankshaft lock at
TDC. Make sure the balance shaft
lock is still in place and flat.
The balance shaft gear bolt holes should be in the middle as shown in the yellow box to the right. They should not be right on the edge.
Place the intermediate gear on and test fit it. As you you slide it into place, the balance shaft gear bolt holes should stay about in the middle. Again, note the dog eared washer underneath. With the gear in place but not tight, tighten the 4x 10mm balance shaft gear bolts in place to 15 ft-lb (20 Nm) but don't add the final 1/4 turn yet. I suggest not adding the final turn so you can check for play. Once the bolts are tightened to their final torque they cannot be reused. Remove the balance shaft lock.
Note: the intermediate gear coating should be uniform around the gear teeth. This coating will wear away with use and this sets the correct gear lash or play. If the gear has a painted dot on the face and the coating is only at one spot, install the gear so that the coating is touching the other gears. When you tighten the intermediate gear it's normal for the balance shaft and gear to slightly rotate.
Use a piece of wood to push hard on the intermediate gear in about the direction of the blue arrow (between the crankshaft and balance shaft gears). While pushing on the intermediate gear, tighten the 14mm triple square intermediate gear bolt to 15 ft-lb (20 Nm) but do not add the final 1/4 turn, the final torque.
The purpose is to test fit the gears and check for gear backlash and gear motion. Once you tighten the bolts to their final torque (the extra 1/4 turn) they should not be reused. The gears should have no backlash (play when turning) and should move smoothly and be tight. The crankshaft lock should be at TDC and the balance shaft lock should slide in and out. Double check the dog eared washer under the intermediate gear.
If it passes these tests, add the final 1/4 turn to the 14mm triple square intermediate bear bolt and then to the 4x 10mm balance gear bolts. When you tighten the intermediate gear, push hard on the intermediate gear as before so that it won't move at all. The front flange is aluminum and can't counterhold using the timing belt crank tool (the black thing with the handle and teeth) so I suggest using the crank yank to counterhold the crankshaft sprocket when tightening the bolts. Again, there should be no backlash in the gears when done.
To install the front seal flange, first remove all old gasketmaker with scotch brite and a razor. Wipe the sealing surfaces clean with brake or carb cleaner to prepare them for new gasketmaker. Proper surface preparation is important in making a good seal! Put a bead of gasket maker about 3mm thick around the flange, always around the inside edge of the bolts, and evenly press/tighten the bolts to 11 ft-lb to seal the front flange. More is not better since most of it will get squeezed out.
Now install the crankshaft oil seal (size: 35x48x10) using VW tool# T10053 seal
drift. This is a 2 piece drift - the first one covers the ridge on the
crankshaft and lets the seal slide over it without damage to the lip. This
prevents the lip from folding over - teflon seals are vulnerable to lip damage
but usually seal better. The
second uses the bolt to push the seal to the perfect
depth. If you have a teflon seal (papery material, no spring, the
preferred seal type) do not use oil to lube the sealing
surfaces because the service manual
says to install the seal dry. If you have a rubbery seal (has spring),
lube the seal's crankshaft contact surface (inner diameter) before installing.
Install the oil pan using the same techniques as the front flange. Tighten the 5mm allen head bolts in a diagonal pattern to keep it flat and even to 11 ft-lb. Tighten the 2x 16mm bolts to 30 ft-lb.
Install the crankshaft sprocket with a new 19mm 12 point bolt (it's a single use stretch bolt) and tighten the bolt to 88 ft-lb + 1/4 turn. Again, make sure to counterhold the sprocket during installation!
The subframe alignment pins are needed to align the subframe to the body. If anything shifted you have to get the wheels off the ground to shift the subframe back into position. The pins should be in their holes and the same position as before loosening the subframe. You can look for dirt outlines on the frame rails to show the approximate old positions of the aluminum engine mount bracket. First tighten the 2x 13mm bolts holding the transmission mount to the subframe. Then put the rear subframe into position but don't tighten the bolts. Then align the front subframe (refer to the pics in part 1) and tighten it. Then tighten the rear.
The subframe shouldn't have moved but you should get a wheel alignment. If the alignment tools go in and out in the same vertical-horizontal position exactly as before then alignment should be unchanged. The reason you may need an alignment is because the suspension is attached to the subframe. I recommend the alignment tools instead of a socket because the tools won't fall down through the holes (there's a lip that holds it) and is an exact fit. If the subframe is slightly off you can feel the tools catching. When aligning the subframe the car cannot have its weight on the frame rails, tires, or suspension. This is because the weight will move the subframe and it's not possible to align it. You must have the engine weight supported (so you can shift the subframe as needed) and the car's weight on the factory jack points.
During replacement of the subframe bolts, install the new bolts one at a time while the other bolts are almost tight. This ensures that the subframe doesn't fall down and stays roughly in alignment.
The rest of installation is the reverse of removal, refer to 1000q: Passat TDI timing belt part 2 - installation, 1000q: lock carrier service position Passat, 1000q: Passat Audi coolant drain flush and bleed, 1000q: engine oil change, and 1000q: splash shield fastener list.
If your engine mounts were bad, refer to 1000q: motor mount replacement. Since you didn't disconnect the transmission mounts from the transmission (you only disconnected them from the subframe) you shouldn't have to align them. If you did, refer to 1000q: transmission mount replacement and alignment.
5mm allen head oil pan bolts: 11 ft-lb
2x 16mm oil pan bolts: 30 ft-lb
(if you had to remove main bearing cap #1) 48 ft-lb + 1/4 turn
6x 10mm front crankshaft seal flange bolts : 11 ft-lb
19mm 12 point crankshaft bolt: 89 ft-lb + 1/4 turn (90o turn)
(additional 1/4 turn may occur in several stages, bolt threads/head should be
dry and free of oil)
(2x per side) 18mm aluminum motor mount bracket bolts: 55 ft-lb
(1x per corner, single use only) 18mm long subframe bolt (for both front and
rear): 81 ft-lb + 1/4 turn
(2x per side) 13mm rear subframe bracket bolts: 15 ft-lb
(2x per side) 13mm transmission mount bolts: 17 ft-lb
(1x per side) 13mm engine mount nuts: unknown but 17 ft-lb should be enough
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