For the 2009-2011 VW Jetta TDI or newer and Golf TDI, or Audi A3 TDI engine, see 1000q: 2009, 2010 (newer) VW TDI CRD common rail diesel engine: oil change.
Your engine is a pumpe duse and the factory recommendation is to only use pumpe duse engine oil, VW oil spec 505.01. Keep engine change receipts for warranty purposes. See 1000q: pumpe duse engine oil list for the TSB which shows the list of engine oils which meet this spec. It's also linked to the right. Some cars with high miles have camshaft wear and engine oil could be a contributing factor in this. See 1000q: camshaft inspection for details on how to check for camshaft wear on your TDI engine.
The regular oil change interval is 10,000 miles. The dealer uses an oil extractor but I like to get underneath the car to inspect the stuff down there like any leaks or broken wiring. Both methods are shown here.
There are 2 different engine oil filter types, pictured below. Supposedly, the meyle/VW filter is made by Purflux and has an accordion element and the mann filter is made by hummel has a straight element. Both came stock on brand new cars. These filters are also used in the VW R32 Golf and Audi TT V6. Parts are linked below, click the links to compare current prices.
Caution - if you order a filter pack, include your VIN number when
ordering or speak to customer service since the fuel filter style changed during
the a5/mk5 body. See 1000q: fuel filter change
on VW Jetta TDI for details on the changes.
Parts (click links to compare current prices)
VW# 071 115 562 A (oil filter), from dieselgeek (20k
mile filter kit), from kermatdi (20k
filter pack for early , 20k
filter pack for later cars)
oil wrench, pipe wrench, or 32 mm (or 1 1/4") socket
T25 and T30 torx for the splash shield under the engine
19mm socket for drain pan
engine oil quantity with filter change: 4.3 liters / 4.5 quarts
Here is TDI Hoo's review of the Assenmacher oil funnel (click to enlarge gallery)
I prefer to get under the car to inspect underneath but decided to try the Mity vac 7300. The advantage is that it's easier and cleaner but it does take longer. In my video it took about an hour to change the oil, most of which was spent fishing the pickup tube around trying to place the end in the remaining oil instead of curling up into the air. The oil would have flowed a lot eaiser if the engine was up to operating temperature but it still flows a lot faster if you get under the car. In the end, you save time vs. jacking up the car and removing the splash pan.
Here is my review of the MityVac 7300. It works by using compressed air with a venturi to create a vacuum. It's nice because you don't have to pump but you're tied down to your source of compressed air. It doesn't draw a lot of air so you don't need a 2 stage compressor but a 100 psi compressor is probably the minimum you need, not a bicycle tire pump. I would have liked something that required more air and had more suction. Pela also makes hand pump type oil extractors.
One thing that I didn't show in the video is sticking the tube into the oil filter housing. There's a bit of oil there too. Always remove the filter first since it releases the oil trapped in there into the oil pan.
With the car off, apply the parking brake, and safely and securely raise the car as described in your factory service manual. Make sure the car is safe and secure before getting under the car. See 1000q: wood blocks for details on wood blocks I use on my car. Here are where the jack stands were on my car: 1000q: jack stands for mk5 Jetta but always check your owner's manual and your car for any differences first. See the TOS Agreement for the full legal disclaimer.
Remove the lower engine cover/splash shield. There are 3x T30 torx screws at the
rear and 8x T25 torx screws along the sides (4 per side).
Slide the cover back towards the rear of the car to remove the cover, it will
fall off. It's held on the front by tabs and likes to come off at a
Remove the top engine cover. First pop off the black piece and then pop
off the silver piece. There are rubber snaps, just pull the cover straight
First remove the engine oil filter cap. It should come off first
because removing the filter opens a valve which drains some engine oil out of the
filter housing and into the oil pan. It's normally closed so that the
filter isn't full of air on a cold start. This view is from the top.
Remove the top of the filter housing using a 32mm or 1-1/4 (1.25)inch socket or
Lift up the oil filter slightly so that most of the oil will drain out of the housing and off the filter. Put the oil filter back down and let it sit unscrewed for a while to drip dry some more.
Pull the old filter out. As you remove the filter, use paper towels to catch
the remaining oil dripping off of the filter. If you want to get the
little bit of oil sitting in the oil filter housing out, use a vacuum hand pump
to suck it out. Separate the old filter from the oil filter cap.
There are some snaps that hold it on. Be careful when pulling the filter
out because it's possible for a metal spring to pop off if it catches on the
filter during removal.
Replace the large o-ring for the filter cap and make sure the small o-ring is
on the new filter. If not, reuse the old o-ring. Wet them with clean
engine oil before installation to prevent them from getting pinched.
It's possible for the plastic stem of the filter to break off. If your old
filter doesn't come out in 1 piece, just pull out the broken stem or else your
new one won't fit. The filter has some plastic hooks at the top that snap
into the filter cap.
Place an oil catch pan under the oil drain plug pictured below and circled in
red. Remove the oil fill cap and then remove the drain plug and drain the oil.
Make sure that your catch pan can hold at least 5 quarts.
Remove the oil drain plug and torque to 22 ft lbs (30NM). Remember the oil pan is aluminum so don't over tighten it!
Replace the filter and torque the cap to 18 ft lbs (25NM). Don't overtighten the cap because the o-ring does most of the sealing! Fill the oil filter housing with oil so that it's not full of air. The reason why you should wait until after the filter is in place is because the drain valve in the filter housing will be closed only after you put the filter in place.
You can now refill the oil. Add 4 liters/quarts and check the level. Add more oil as necessary until it is near or just below the max mark on the dipstick.
Start the engine and let it idle for 30 sec-1 minute while you inspect for any leaks, strange noises, or warning lights on the dashboard.
Double check the oil drain plug and oil filler cap or leaks. The rest of installation is the reverse of removal. Your local garage or auto parts store will have an engine oil disposal. Do not dump old engine oil onto the ground! If you can't find a disposal for used coolant, engine oil, or other car fluids, earth911.com can find one.
TDILow3 made an oil extractor storage sleeve using some PVC piping to keep the tubing clean. Here is a .pdf showing the project:
Do you have any tips on changing the engine oil on your VW Jetta TDI? Feel free to post it in the VW repair forum here: myturbodiesel.com