Intermediate shaft seal replacement for mk3 VW Jetta and Passat TDI , 1z and AHU engine
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difficulty: 3/5
Introduction
If you are changing the timing belt and have high mileage, it may be worth it to change the intermediate shaft seal and water pump since you're already in there and it's easy to change.
(I wouldn't change the front main crankshaft oil seal unless you have a leak.) The 2 seals you are changing are the round seal (same as the camshaft and front crankshaft seal) and the green o-ring that goes under the seal flange. Since the intermediate shaft pulley has to be removed to get the water pump off, you may also want to change the water pump at the same time. The intermediate shaft runs the oil pump and uses the same seal as the camshaft and crankshaft front main seal. If you have low oil pressure, this could be a sign that the intermediate shaft bearing is worn and is causing a loss of pressure. There is also a green viton o-ring seal that goes under the flange and should be replaced. Also inspect the woodruff key and pulley for wear. See related links: 1000q: timing belt removal , 1000q: timing belt part 2 - installation , 1000q: water pump .
If you need to remove the intermediate shaft completely (if it's broken, etc), just loosen the right and front motor mounts, raise the engine, and the intermediate shaft can be pulled straight out.
Parts for intermediate shaft seal replacement (click links to compare current prices)
intermediate shaft /camshaft seal (47x32x10mm)
026
103 085 d or 068 103 085E
or (generic
seal)
viton green o-ring for the flange seal (always replace) n
903 535 01,
generic viton seal , idparts
Optional parts
VW# n 012 708 2
sprocket woodruff key
VW# 028 115
017 e intermediate shaft (in case yours is broken, otherwise not
recommended)
Procedure (with timing belt removal)
Remove the timing belt. See 1000q: timing belt removal and 1000q: timing belt part 2 - installation and follow the applicable steps.
Remove the water pump pulley (3x 6mm allen bolts), (in white text below). You can use an adjustable pipe wrench to counterhold the pulley at the neck, right behind the pulley.
Remove the intermediate shaft pulley (in yellow below). Counterhold the intermediate
shaft pulley with a sprocket holder to remove it's 18mm pulley nut. Then
you can just remove the pulley, you can mark it with a sharpie to show which
side is the outer side. Be careful because the pulley
is aluminum. Note that there is a woodruff key for the intermediate shaft.
Once the intermediate shaft pulley is off, remove the 2 bolts holding the
flange. Note that there is a woodruff key for the sprocket. Push
against the shaft while you pull the flange out so the shaft doesn't come
out. If it does come out, just wiggle/rotate the shaft until it slides
back into place. In the below picture, the
intermediate shaft pulley was removed and the seal flange was already loosened
with a new seal installed.
Here is the flange removed.
Below is the seal. This is the same seal as the camshaft and crankshaft
front seal. Use
some PB blaster and soak the edges of the seal. After 5 minutes, the seal
should come out easily with a drift/socket tapping it out. You can also
try heating the flange with a torch. Lubricate the new seal with oil and
press it in.
Always use a new o-ring for the flange as well. If there is corrosion on the sealing surfaces, scrub them with something of medium-soft abrasiveness like scotch brite (not steel wool) until clean.
Follow the above linked timing belt articles for more details.
Torque specs:
Torque for 2 flange bolts - 18 ft lbs
Torque for shaft - sprocket bolt - 33 ft lbs
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